norty303

If you can stretch to it, the Celestion CDX1-1745/1746 compression driver is a phenomenal sounding comp for the money, far outshining its price tag. The 2 models I've listed are the screw and bolt variants.

I didn't think I needed to repeat what he'd already confirmed in his original post

Your 'haze' machine is most likely a slow flow fogger with a fan attached. Vinegar and water should be fine if it takes regular smoke fluid.

Absolutely, but I think there is value in detailing why the numbers don't equate equally between amp output and speaker RMS rating, how musical signal is different from test sine waves, how speaker ratings are actually devised, etc, etc Unfortunately it's a big subject, but I think dumbing it down only leads to misinformation and misunderstanding about what is 'safe' and what are the causes of loudspeaker failure. I think if there was one thing I'd advise anyone, it's 'do not clip your amps'.

No you don't really, unless you're going to go start playing sine waves through the rig. 150w into a 100w rms rated cab should be fine so long as you don't go clipping the amp. Even running flat out the average power the speaker is likely to see will be 90w or so. 'Restricting the output to 100w' would be just about impossible anyway.

Yep, Laserworld's cheaper units are just chinese rebrands or OEM. CE = 'Chinese Export' nothing more There are some very good Chinese components coming out (Laserwave laser heads, Dragon Tiger scanners, etc), but you do still generally get what you pay for. How much money you got to spend and what are you after?

If you do go for a new keyswitch, remember that the key must not be able to be withdrawn when in the on position

Of course its possible. Speakers will usually use a 35mm top hat, and 35mm is becoming more normal for lighting as well (specifically because people want to mix and match their stuff and the less pro companies wanting to only have to make 1 size for all their products) Lighting used to be 32mm or 29mm standard connectors depending on brand (Powerdrive, Manfrotto, etc)and intended use (follow spot spigot, etc) You can now get a wide range of 35mm adpators, t-bars from lots of manufacturers that'll do what you need. Google 35mm t bar or anything 35mm stand related to get a lo

Also the particular wavelength of a colour is very significant to brightness. For greens you're fairly limited to 532nm (for common affordable DPSS), and this is the most bright to the human eye for a given power. There are a range of reds available now 635, 642, 650 and 660. I've just bought a 1.1watt 650nm head and a 635 of about half the power will be as bright, but much more orange. 660 are very deep blood red but require silly powers to see (and hence more dangerous) Blues come in a few options, 473 being the most popular as its brighter for the money, but is starting to

I think that may be overstating it somewhat. Perhaps in the old gas head days, but nowadays 2 watt dpss lasers are pretty impressive alone. It also depends on the size of the club. A 400mW 532nm (green) laser will adequately do a club of 300 or so. Well, more dangerous at least! But yes, brighter = better in the laser game, more defined beams, less smoke required to make them visible, 'WOW factor', etc Just be fully aware of the risks if you are in the market for a laser bigger than the average 'DJ' unit.

To put it in perspective, the Void Infinite 8v2 is capable of doing 3800w per side at 2ohms. It has a digital readout on the front to indicate how many amps its pulling from the mains. People I know use this to see just how high they can get it as a form of racing... In normal use with 4 18" bass cabs per side playing bass heavy music like DnB and dubstep they tend to tick over about 6-8amps which is a lot lower than the theoretical 33A at 230v that you might expect. Thats not to say that they don't get up into the 20's but thats being silly and certainly well in excess of what you're

Amplifiers are, at best, around 80% efficient (depending on topology, some much less so), meaning that they will only ever put out 80% of the power they draw in.... BUT capacitor banks have a large part to play in burst power which is why you see some crazy peak power figures on modern amps that exceed what could realistically be drawn down the power cable. Also, although your amp may be rated at 1000w per channel it is unlikely that you'll be playing sine waves all night at full power, so you won't ever draw 2400w with both sides of the amp running hard. Modern music has a duty

I'd say that the evidence is fairly clear that it has been misused if the coil on the crossover is burnt out. They don't do that on their own with too little power. Sounds exactly what you would expect from a clipped amp - lucky no drivers went too (you have checked the drivers separately I take it?) You could get a replacement crossover for about £30 or £40 and fit it yourself, they're readily available, its just choosing the most appropriate for the job.

At what frequency was that 101db/1w/1m measured? Manufacturers have a habit of picking the highest number even if it doesn't fall within the normal operating range of the speaker. However from looking at the graphs it appears that is within the usual range of the speaker (120hz-1.5khz) Worth bearing in mind if comparing against others

Eminence are ok if you're on a budget, even some of their more expensive drivers aren't bad. However it's usually the case that once you get up near the £100 mark and above there are better alternatives out there. That said, if an Eminence driver suits your cabs best then it'll be the best choice. Also, don't forget to look at the Thiele Small parameters of the driver and more importantly the sensitivity. You may find a driver with a bit less power handling but 3db better sensitivity which will be louder on your amp than the current one.