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norty303

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Everything posted by norty303

  1. I used 6 of the Eurolite LED64 10mm cans alongside 8 conventional 500w Par64's over this weekend on a festival stage. The LED's were providing side wash, with regulars on main overhead duty. Depending on the colour used, it varied between what worked best. Reds on the led's were less than the pars, blues were better than pars, green about the same. Regular pars obviously had it on the open white. I'm going to get some diffuser for mine to try to even out some of the colour imbalance on the led's as i've heard it can also help with the halos you get off the led's.
  2. norty303

    Bass Bins

    This is a little misleading as in my experience most don't. you need to be very clear on whether the ones you're looking at have a filter or not before you buy. If you have to buy separate filters for bass bins it is often more cost effective to buy an active crossover, and much more versatile/configurable.
  3. Mixing different speakers in series or parallel is not advisable. If you wish to run in series you're also going to need to change the internal wiring to achieve it.
  4. This year is the first time I've been asked for PAT certs, and thats for 2 out of 3 festivals we're doing so it's covered the cost there. Some of the stuff we tested came straight out of it's plastic wrapping (arrived that day) and was tested. Seems a bit of a waste to be testing something that has come direct from the factory but there ya go, can't argue with the man. Some of the power cables we're going to be using will be made up on site to fit the tents we're doing so they won't be tested, some things you just can't account for. I'm sure I probably won't actually get asked to produ
  5. Reference the 'wouldn't get used much' comment.... Do you not use a graphic EQ as a matter of course when you take your system out? (this question to everyone really not just you) There are very few systems that I've seen/heard that don't benefit some EQ'ing regardless of the situation (bar stuff that has dedicated system controllers like Nexo, etc) If you're going to use an EQ on your system then a parametric is generally better, as it can give much better curves than a regular EQ, and once its been adjusted for the gig, it normally doesn't need fiddling with. Of course you ca
  6. If you can get hold of a parametric EQ then use a very narrow Q notch filter, and sweep it around the 40-10hz area until you find the problem frequency. With Technics, a notch at 80hz usually sorts it out. There are a number of cheap solutions you can make to isolate the decks. Easiest is to get a length of waste pipe and cut short ring sections from it. Then get those big heavy rubber bands and wrap them so they run all ways over the opening. Put one under each foot of the deck and you're away. You can put a deck directly on a 2000w sub with these and not suffer any feedback (tested
  7. If you stand a speaker on the floor, the bottom end is within 1/4 wavelength of itself, which means it effectively 'couples' with itself (you get a free 3db for nothing, due to the mirror image of itself created by the floor plane) Raising the speaker from the floor means you lose this effect. Placing a speaker on a stand back against a wall means you get that 3db from the back wall, put it in a corner and you get another 3db from the side wall too. Try placing a sub in the middle of a room and then putting it in a corner on the floor. Notice the difference? The more surface are in co
  8. Just had the local friendly leccy contractor over to do my PAT testing, as it's festival season and busy from next week. 5 1/2 hours later (quarter to midnight finish) and 88 assets and we're finally done!! And we left the 16amp and 32amp power cabling for another time as we didn't have the right adaptors to test it. I'm now thinking that 12months is going to come around far too quickly for my liking!!
  9. I personally would up the price for the terrible spelling and txt spk in that msn message.
  10. Regularly leave my kit in venues overnight because i've had a few drinks. Ironically the only bit of kit ever gone missing was a few grands worth of graphic equaliser which was ready to be loaded out to the van. Someone walked up and simply picked it up while our backs were turned. My speakers aren't on my insurance as if someone wants over a tonne of boxes in a hurry then they deserve it for the planning thats gone into it (and i'm sure i'd catch them if they were on foot....). Stuff in cases with conveniently placed handles is the biggest risk. a flightcase says 'Ooh, look at me, I'
  11. Its part of the Environemntal Noise regulation for Noise. It can vary i believe from midnight, however its along the lines that no music, amplified singing, etc can be heard inside the relevant property, with windows open as to effect normal ventilation. Here's the section from our Noise control document for a festival i'm working on this year, that uses standard noise level controls (e.g. not simply put in place for the festival) A local venue was shut down because a resident in the flats above persistently complained when he could hear even the slightest noise, and he
  12. Some of the early Optikinetics Solar 250's, with the metal gates.
  13. I think it would be a lot better if people actually understood what the RMS and 'peak' values meant, and how that translated into musical power. Having decent meters on amps also gives a good indication of how much power is running into the speakers. Yes and no, you have to define the conditions of use. 500wrms rated speakers will run comfortably with a 500w sine wave into them, but will take a lot more from music and dynamic signals. Even heavily compressed recorded music can be run at 2x levels into DECENT equipment with no ill effects. I run all sections of my system at
  14. You say you moved the speakers around along with leads. Did you do this one at a time? It's no good changing lots of things at once as you never know what was the culprit if you 'fix' it. First thing i'd do is swap the speaker leads over at the amp so the boxes are powered off the other side of the amp. Does the problem move? If so, then its a speaker cable or speaker problem. I'd say it was a part blown voice coil or crossover causing a much lower impedance on that side.
  15. Less so nowadays as lights tend to stay on and be controlled by shutters/wheels and mechanical dimmers. Hums tended to come from big old transformers and dimmers.
  16. I have people asking to come help on the bigger nights i do as they normally want to be there anyway. They get free entry, access to the crew beers, access all areas passes and in return i ask them for about 3 hours setup time and 2 hours breakdown. Got 2 big festivals this year and they're queuing round the block.....
  17. What amp is it? Some cheap amps have very poor or no DC protection whatsoever (despite claims to the contrary in the literature. It could be broken whilst showing no outward signs of the fact. Also, even though the gains were very low, were you putting a very hot signal into it? Any clip/limit lights showing? It could be that you were running the amp flat out with a very overdriven, distorted signal, the worst scenario for drivers. Probably the best thing to do is get the amp on a scope and see what the output waveform looks like. Oh yeah, and what otronics said above
  18. Ok, first of all it was and always will be in mono, because you're using a mic which is a mono signal. This is not a bad thing. you are simply sending a pair of mono signals and receiving a pair of mono signals. When you say it sounded awful, in what way? The Zoom units are cheap but do have an ok sound to them so i'm not sure its the effects that are at fault. Effects can be used in 2 ways, either as send effects or as insert effects. When used as insert effects the whole signal is passed to the unit and you use the wet/dry control to determine how much of the signal is affected
  19. They're definately a moving head of sorts, however a lot of these lights are not moving heads but specific fixed heads with wide angle lenses. Depending on the size of marquee you may get away with a MSD250 lamped version such as the the MAC250(and later variants) So long as its got a 22deg lense and prism option plus a pinhole type gobo you'll be fine. I've got scans that'll do the same thing so you don't neccessarily need a head if you just want it in a fixed position. With enough 'atmosphere' (smoke) even something like a Datamoon or Destroyer will do the job (the destroyers have a
  20. Um, do you know anything about PD? They are a British firm making quality drivers. Were bought out by Eminence Europe (distributors, not Harmann) not long back but now in the original owners hands again as far as i'm aware. Just had factory move so production has slowed a bit. Turbosound and Funktion 1 use a mixture of Fane and PD as their drivers (not keeping all their eggs in one basket) so its probably one of the better outcomes that could've happened to Fane.
  21. I believe the C-Marks are only rated for a minimum of 4ohm loads per channel, meaning that the biggest load you can attach in bridge mode is 8ohms. By connecting the 2 8ohm speakers in parallel you make a 4ohm load which could kill your amp as each channel effectively 'sees' a 2ohm load. If your amp is rated for 2ohm loads then you are good to run it bridged on the pair.
  22. In reference to the p*ssing on the rod, its a common thing in the free party scene. Apparently the 'additives' in the urine give a better earth than water alone. See this on the Screwfix forums... http://www.screwfix.com/talk/thread.jspa?threadID=54570
  23. Try Penn Fabrication or CPC (Farnells) http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.j...castor&Ntx=
  24. Might want to look into what implications the selling off of the radio spectrum could have on future use of radio mics. Here's a piece pasted from a discussion on Blue Room forum. Perhaps worth putting off the purchase until its decided.
  25. Yep, if i was throwing 600w at a mid top cab i'd want much more than 118db out of it.
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