norty303

This is due to poor quality components more than likely. Good top end comes at a price, with most decent compression drivers costing over £150 with some going up to £350. As they're perceived as being smaller and less powerful (lower power rating) most people find it hard to justify paying for good compression drivers - and put up with less than satisfactory sound when it gets near the limit as a result.

...or trying to 'boost' 100kg of lights up when you're done hanging them....

We should be clear on the difference between proper truss and the gantry type setups you see on ebay. I use ladder truss (29cm edge to edge) in 1.5m sections and with 3 sections together supported on each end it can hold safely 150kg at the centre point or 300kg evenly spread. Given that you need proper lifts at this sort of weight its normally the stands that exceed limits before the truss itself. It's enough for 4 Robe scans (80kg) 2 575 scans (50kg) 2 martin wizards (40kg) and UV cannons and Pars

The Futurelight FY-200 is basically a copy of the Martin Wizard (diff shape case, wave effect instead of 'falling star' thing, no macros) with 250w discharge lamp. You can get them from Germany for under £200 each. Quite heavy but they are a 'big' effect and fantastic under dmx control

You can get ones where the front and rear doors come off and form the space for decks/CDJ's/PC either side too. http://www.proaudioparts.co.uk/void.asp http://www.proaudioparts.co.uk/images/products/flight-case-rack.gif Scroll to the bottom of the page

Maybe the reason it didn't pop a fuse was BECAUSE it was a £100 amp.....

Do the sums based on the sensitivity and amp power going into it. They quote 126db at 1m for the tops and 130db at 1m for the sub, but both of those are at 10% thd which is high and they'll no doubt sound not great when pushed that hard. I don't trust their claimed sensitivity ratings either (which are asterixed but can't see any footnote to enlighten me). Bass reflex designs will not normally top 100db@1w/1m. Also the reflex loaded mid at 104db is into horn territory. the compression driver might do it, the mids won't. Can't find the data for the 1000 system on their site.

That polo pitch used to be my old model flying club site when i was a nipper!

Lets face it, the Wizard is not 'just' a barrel light!!! They're also very bright compared to most barrel effects.

You'll find that a single 15" sub will always struggle to keep up with a pair of mid tops if you want presence. Have you considered either of the small offerings from Void Acoustics? There's the Mycro system which is small and has very, very impressive sparkling sound but does lack a bit of welly if you need that sort of thing. Outstanding clarity when we heard it at Plasa though. http://www.voidaudio.com/product_detail.asp?id=53 Or there's the bigger brother, the Basys system. Comes with amp to drive the lot. 2 x 15" bass cabs and 2 x 12" mid tops with 1" compression dr

Out of interest, whose bloody stupid idea was it in the first place, and more to the point, who did the wiring? Fair enough if they'd made a switch box so you could select 1 or the other 'input' sources (although would need to be fairly high current switch) but should the offending article have caused something to blow up nastily in someones face, would they have borne the consequences I wonder? Surely it would have been far simpler to simply run some signal cables to where you needed to be in the venue, and let the mixer amp take care of the power duties for everything. Why bother

Thats what i meant, depending on whether the pfl (or cue, or whatever its labelled on that particular model) is pressed or not

Seems like you've covered most things. When you go back, try the unplugged speaker cable thing and see if the amp doesn't clip at the point it was. this should tell you where you need to be looking (downstream of amp, or upstream) If you can get a multimeter onto one of the driver connections directly then check impedance. Should be around 5.5 to 6 for an 8ohm rated driver. Also, do those Peavey's use jack connectors? Worth checking all of those connectors for part shorts if they're not speakons. This part is confusing What mixer is it? (so we can check manua

I'd say its not the speakers. It sounds like the input to the amp is too high if it starts to clip at only half gain on the amp. Does that mixer have an attenuator or something like it on the back (like the Pioneer DJM5/600's)? The muffled/distorted sound is also consistent with a very overdriven input or output stage. Can you explain this a bit better please? Do you mean that with the gains on amp/mixer amp at 50% the clip lights show? What is the (DJ) mixer setting like when this happens? If you unplug the speaker cable from the back of the amp (turn do

Thats been my concern with the led cans. I've been trying to read up on opinions of how they compare. With the 64's some say they're about the same as a 500w regular par64. However when you look at the lumen rating compared to the halogen lamp, they don't come close. Any more experiences/observations? On the eurolite website the long nose profile par 64 appears to have greater light output, however i'm unable to find anywhere, here or abroad that stocks them. http://www.eurolite.de/eur_artdetail.php?a...3635&lang=E http://www.eurolite.de/eur_artdetail.php?a...3

Subs are on wheels because they're over 80kg each. Stack stuff on them, or use a wheel board for other cabs. All the rest is manual lugging but using switch mode amps now in no more than 4U cases so nothing is more than 20kg anyway. Lighting cases, truss etc is too big to stack so has to be manually handled, normally 2 people due to weight.

I'm having intermittent problems from both my home and work PC's, at all times of day.

MArtin Destroyers are a good solid buy on ebay too. Pay up to about £70 each for them, but check they are the M33 lamped one first. You'll get you money back come the time to sell.

Well a line array that isn't big enough to function as a line source isn't really a line array. And when a line array isn't functioning as a line source across the full frequency range produced by the line elements, it's functioning as a point source system that is less well optimised than a dedicated point source system. Having 4 a side means that the line source only works above a certain frequency, everything below that falls off at 6db with every doubling of distance, everything above at (a theoretical) 3db per doubling. That makes it very difficult to get a balance as you've got di

Thanks for the responses. I take it you mean vertical dispersion rather than horizontal in that? Even with 4 (or even 8 come to think of it) a side you won't get a proper line source, simply the same coupling as you would with a conventional system (and normal adherence to the inverse square law). In order to have a source act as a line source you need a hang somewhere in the region of 8 metres to control a 170hz wave, which is probably somewhere above where the mids cross to the subs. Am i right in thinking those are 6th order bandpass subs? At which frequencies do you cr

I'm curious why you went for a mini line? Given that line arrays don't actually function as a line source with that few cabs per hang, what was the deciding factor over a point source system? Surely the extra complications of the hangs is a negative too. Or was it that having a line array on the inventory was a good commercial move?

Any more info on them please? They are the Stairville ones i believe, 4 channel dmx. I've been looking at the Eurolite Par64's which are 5 channel and the description says they have variable speed strobing. What are the features like on the ones you have, what/how are the DMX channels set up like (RGB mixing on 3 channels plus dimming?) Thanks

1 - Pan 2 - Tilt 3 - 4 - Dimmer/Strobe 5 - Gobo 6 - Gobo Rotation 7 - Colour Wheel 8 - Those are from the fixture file in Freestyler, as you can see it looks incomplete.

I believe they were only DMX or a dedicated TAS controller. I've got the DMX ranges fro the Mini Ultra Scan 2 if you want them.

ebay is your friend in this case. Set up 2 saved searches for 'opti' and 'optikinetics' and you'll get all of them as they get advertised. They still fetch a good price second hand though. Also check out Optifanatics website for second hand stuff.