norty303

Sorry i hadn't realised that the bass bins might have passives in them. these should definately be bypassed or removed otherwise you'll be getting some weird crossover curves going on. Passives also soak up power so less actually makes it to the drivers. The best way to find out what sounds best is to get it running and sweep the crossover point betwen subs and mids around until it sounds nicest. It could be anything between 60hz and 250hz but if you've got a passive crossover that cuts off at 150hz this will always dictate how high they'll play. If you've got 2 sockets on the bac

Ok, if you are going to use the single bass output you need to have the summed LF switched on, otherwise you're getting only one side of the signal and it'll be at least 3db down on power. Next try turning the crossover down to 80hz. You might start to hear some punch from the mids then and just sub from the bass bins. You'll also probably find that you'll need to increase the bass output level on the crossover to balance up the respective outputs. You will more than likely need to EQ the system to get it sounding right. Adding some boost around 100-150hz should give you a

Slightly confused by your comments about not knowing where the other switches should be. You have read the manual, right? It does give pretty clear instructions on front and back panel settings for most common configs. And have you done that parallel thing yet?

First of all try putting the sub amp into parallel mode, and only use the summed sub output of the crossover into input ch1 on the amp. This will give a consistent and uniform sound to your bass, and minimise any imbalance in the stereo feed. I suspect that if you've got different sounds coming from the mid/tops then its because you've got the crossover set up to supply more 'ways' than needed and its sending a diff set of signals to the 2 channels on the top amp.

Actually the old stuff is likely to be far louder watt for watt. Amp power was harder/more expensive to come by, so drivers/cabs were more sensitive to make better use of what was available. Modern drivers with their larger voice coils and stronger cone structures will take more power to achieve the same output but will ultimately go louder when fed the bigger power levels we can lay our hands on today.

Yep, sounds to me like they want equipment hire, i'd go that route if it was me. I know plenty of people who really don't like 'discos' but its actually a cheap way of getting sound and lighting, delivered and set up without having to get your hands dirty if the time/situation doesn't allow it. In those cases they invariably wouldn't want the whole 'name in lights' branding either, they simply want the music they desire.

Problem is we don't have a definition of what average is, or even that we're solely talking 'mobile disco' rig. Your average disco is going to be a pair of speakers on sticks and maybe a pair of subs for the sound system. Some lights (maybe DMX) on a pair of stands (T-bars or ladder truss, take yer pick) Its fairly standard fare. I think Andy may be into a slightly different market, catering for some bigger 'function' and events where its also about equipment rental, more 'production' than 'disco' hence why his idea of average is different to yours. My setups take forever.....

Having seen the message whilst the forum was closed, and generally only visiting the techie parts of the forum..... ....AND being the sort of person who DOES slow down to look at car crashes..... .....what went on and where can i read about it? Purely in the interests of internet entertainment you understand (and a need to not feel like i'm missing out on something!)

For what its worth i use an Enttec Pro unit. I would advise getting the pro rather than the openDMX one as they have better support and are less likely to fail in a live environemt. You also get better software support for the Pro from 3rd parties. Its worth checking out what software supports your interface before buying one. I used to use Freestyler but found that it was still not quite polished enough (granted its freeware, but it was still clunky to use) too difficult to change things on the fly and seemingly random behaviour when doing things with chases and beziers that i could n

My DJ rig basic set has 2 4U cases, each with a DCX2496 and a QSC PLX3402. One also has a Formula Sound AVC2 (this is for FOH duties) the other has a stereo compressor (this is monitor rack and if I need comps on any vox). I then add separate PLX's as I need for the gig. I now only own PLX3402's and 1 bigger amp for subs, and everything gets run off them (even my compression drivers and tweeters)

Most of those generic desks will have separate speed and fade contols. One controls the time between steps, the other controls the length of time to fade between those 2 points. So you have your scans set to pan 180 degrees back and forth. If you set speed to 2 secs and fade to 0 they will jump side to side every 2 secs as quickly as they can. If you set fade to 2 secs they will pan slowly from side to side every 2 secs. They'll reach the end and immediately start to move back the other way. If you set fade to 1 sec they will pan twice as fast as above, pause for 1 sec th

QUOTE Nearly all of the corssover units I have been looking at only have 1 XLN Sub output. Does this mean that I will only be able to run my 4Ohm subs at 2ohms? That's not great news because I don't want to push my amp or blow the subs. having a summed mono output from the crossover doesn't mean you have to run the amp bridged. Bridged mode is mono by default as its combining the 2 sides of the amp to make 1 higher power one. You can put a mono signal into an amp and have each channel playing that same mono signal. This is commonly known as 'parallel' mode and is different from

QUOTE Even if you bridge the amp, your two 4 ohm speakers connected will mean it is running at 2 ohms which I don't think will do the amp any good in bridged mode Its even worse than you suspect Tony. With 2 4ohm loads in parallel you get a 2ohm load. If you try to drive 2ohms on a bridged amp what each side of the amp actually 'sees' will be 1ohm. Thats a killer for almost any amp bar the odd few like the Crown Macrotechs and some of the newer 'digital' amps.

A mixer EQ will never be able to replace a good 31 band EQ on your system, they do distinctly different jobs in my view. The main EQ is to get your system sounding right in the location you are at (very few speakers sound 'right' with no EQing on them, especially not cheap ones) The mixer EQ should then be used to adjust the tracks you're playing to get them sounding consistent, for example when playing from different sources (vinyl, CD, laptop, etc) Even without a crossover its common practise to pull the frequencies below 35hz just to stop wasting power and potentially damaging ba

QUOTE And you can use either output. If you have two subs then you'd use both. Be careful here. The amp may only be stable into a 4ohm load per side meaning it can only run an 8ohm load in bridged mode. Even if it can run 2ohms stereo (equal to 4ohms bridged mono) it will be under quite a lot of stress and probably get very hot. Know what you're amp is rated for BEFORE you start plugging lots of cabs into it.

Funnily enough just came across these today.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pair-4-cell-of-Audie...1QQcmdZViewItem

@welshy - yes the low cut filter (high pass) at 40hz will filter out the low frequencies and will stop you wasting amp power and potentially over extending your drivers. @moonie - if you have a low cut on your amp then you prob won't need to bother..... however just for practise.... Select the output that gives the signal to your sub by pressing the button. Move to the crossover page (next one to right after gain and input selection) It will give you details of the lower filter type and frequency and upper filter type and frequency. Set the lower one there id its not already

Unless you've got an exceptionally large bandpass or reflex box or an incredibly large horn/group of horns, 25hz is too low and you'll also be wasting power and potentially causing over excursion. Expensive subs use good quality drivers so they can set the tuning frequency lower because the driver can take it. Cheaper ones have a higher tuning frequency for exactly the opposite reasons. Once you're playing below tuning frequency the driver becomes unloaded by the air mass and excursion increases dramatically. Given that most pop and dance stuff really doesn't have much going on below 3

Glad you like it. One thing you might like to do is add high pass filters to the bass settings to protect the drivers from over excursion and to maximize the output from your subs. It will make a big difference. Consider this your first project :) 48db/oct butterworth filter at 35hz high pass 48db gives it a very steep cutoff whilst the Butterworth filters roll offf far more sharply than the Linkwitz Reilly. When setting up filters try to stick with multiples of 24 (so 24 or 48 basically) Every 6db/oct introduces 90 degrees of phase shift so 24 is 360 and 48 is 720. You

You will ONLY be able to use the speakers on 1 amp if the subs DO HAVE passive crossovers. Your amp will be working very hard in these circumstances if you have it loud and may cut out thermally, however it should get you by. If they don't have passive filters you WILL need an active crossover, regardless of what configuration you use.

QUOTE If it's blowing fuses the chances are the mosfets have blown and they almost always take out their PWM drive ic's and other bits and bobs...all surface-mount. If you're tempted just to replace the mosfets then there may be a loud bang and several bits blow off the board, rendering repair more expensive or writing-off the board completely. Mosfets are dear and the constant blowing of these again soon disheartens the eager DIYer!! Ok, how do i go about testing the mosfets? Worth pointing out i do also have a good Ego03 to compare against.

As has been said, you will need an active crossover if the subs don't have built in passive filters. Behringer amps do not have low pass filters for use in place of a crossover. They have high pass filters at 30hz or 50hz to stop very low inaudible frequencies getting to your drivers and soaking up power.

So the discolouration to the board under L101 might be a red herring?

Ok, so L101 is also a bridge rectifier then? Or are you talking about the other BR?

*puts on dunces hat* BR?