norty303

Any sub will benefit from clever placement however there are a few things to bear in mind... A horn type cab can be placed facing into a corner so that the room effectively acts as an extension to the horn, giving a longer path length and larger mouth area (see the recent post about Sensurround for an example of a practical use of this) With horns this will give greater SPL and lower extension. Any normal reflex or bandpass enclosure will benefit from placement near a wall due to the 'space' it is operating in. Imagine a cab on a flat plane (on a floor with no walls near it). This is

I'm going to have the heater out again tomorrow and clean it as well as i can. I'll see if i can test some of the 'sand' if i can get enough out this time - threw the last lot away unfortunately. If not i'll probably junk it. It's a Chauvet F-1250 by the way, with timer remote which i paid £30 for all in, new and unopened.

It's ok, the manufacturer recommends white vinegar and distilled water as the cleaning method. I've checked the pump separately and it gives good pressure. I've also managed to get a pipe cleaner and a piece of garden wire up the tube about 4" so far. Is it likely that the bore of the tube gets smaller or would it continue at this diameter all the way?

Well i reasembled it and started to run water/vinegar through it and after about 5 mins it reduced to zero output and straining pump again, so whatever was slightly blocking it is now solid again. Am i right in thinking that i should be able to feed a stiff enough piece of wire all the way down the tube or do the coils run quite tight to each other? I think what might be happening is that the blockage is slightly porous from the gaps in the sand but gets waterlogged with fluid over time and blocks completely.

QUOTE Could the "sand" be fragments of ceramic from the element This is what i suspected but i wasn't sure if the ceramic could actually get into the smoke path within the element. Thanks for the suggestions to buy a new one, i'm well aware of the options thanks, more interested in why this one might be exhibiting this problem and how to fix it (everythings fixable - just whether its affordable/worth doing is the issue). BTW, Le Maitre are the daddies of foggers, kick Jem ar$e all day long! ;)

Thats the thing though, there is a very fine brass filter on the pick up tube so it must've been in the machine from new. It was very cheap as it was to make up for a late delivery of lights but it would be nice to get it running right if i could.

I've got a smoke machine which has only been used a couple of times since new (very cheap tho and not worth sending back for warranty or anything) and very quickly reduced itself to virtually no smoke output. You could hear the pump motor straining so i thought it was probably a blockage somewhere. A few weeks ago I first took off the nozzle and noticed that there appeared to be 'sand' inside the exit of the heating element. So i cleaned with a pipe cleaner and re-assembled and ran some distilled water and white vinegar through it. It didn't really seem any better. Tonight i took the w

QUOTE However, I do use the system with a compressor limiter which prevents the amp from entering clipping However heavy compression will still lead to ccoking of the VC's as the RMS hitting the speakers will be higher. QUOTE 500w RMS really really means 500w RMS The problem is, when do you know that you're delivering 500wrms to a speaker when you're playing music which is dynamic constantly?

If anyone is interested, Matrix STR3000h amps are still available direct from the manufacturers (Quantum amps) rebadged as XP3000 now and 2ohm stereo capable now. They give 1000w/ch at 8 ohms and 1500w/ch at 4 ohms. They'll set you back around £400 and are a 2U case with powercon connector. I love mine, and such good value.

Once you get the horn theory out of the way you can download an application callled hornresp which will help with the modelling.

First bit of feedback... http://www.in70mm.com/newsletter/2004/69/s...round/about.htm http://www.in70mm.com/newsletter/2004/69/s...round/intro.htm http://members.aol.com/earthquakemovie/trivia.html Dunno if you've found them already, but the first gives a fairly good acount.

Most of the people on there are either working in pro audio or involved in raves/free parties so it tends to be dead on weekends and more so on bank holiday ones. If you want to find out what works best, it might be worth playing with sine waves to find where the box naturally plays best then use white noise around this point to stop the 'drone' of sines. Some modulation may be advisable anyway to avoid prolonged tones hitting the driver and cooking the VC

As an alternative, there are plans out there for a number of the commercially available infra bass boxes which many seem to be of a bandpass design with a large horn flare on the front port, so its essentially horn assisted. The other option might be to measure the room and actually set it up as a very large helmholtz resonator. By choosing to have a door or window of the correct size open you can tune the room, and simply play notes at the tuned frequency. Some buildings suffer this naturally, causing all sorts of strange feelings and illness to people working inside them. Be warned,

I think we need to clarify terminology too. I consider a sub to be something that plays fairly evenly between 35-80hz (the frequencies at which you cannot determine cabinet placement - hence why you run them mono) Below that you get into infrabass, which is more felt than heard. I think your best bet (especially for any sort of plans) would be to post this over on speakerplans.com [edit - I've pasted your original thread there already now] as many people there have been around for a while and have particular interest in exactly that sort of thing, and design their own horns anyway. I'll

Yep, just found that thanks. They're a very poor cousin to the Ego range don't you think? The movement is distinctly less fluid and the Martin uses more than one mirror tunnel giving a much more detailed effect. Think i'll probably stump up for the Martins but not sure if the DMX is justified by the cost

I've been considering some kaleidoscope lighting FX for a while now, and now we're confirmed for some summer festivals am looking into purchase. They are great for lighting trees from a distance, making them really come to life. Obviously the Martin Ego X5 is the daddy (DMX control and superb optics/patterns) but it comes at a price (£300+). The Ego 3 doesn't come in much cheaper. I've seen these at Terralec http://www.terralec.co.uk/__12_product_inf...D7B8590217.html which are not DMX but do take a mini controller which might be passable. However with no video on offer i've no

One of the assessments i make is whether the fixture is to be hung where it might be capable of actually hitting someone and trying to ensure that in most deployments they're not. Then i ascertain whether a chain is needed (normally just for the fixtures safety in event of fall) Chains are only as good as how you use them. Its no use putting a chain around the u bracket on a light, as if a bolt shears, you'll be left with a bracket still in the roof and a light on the floor or hanging from the power cable. Some lights come with additional fixing points for cables/chains and these should

Spot the catch? It's Bose and its only 91db at 1w/1m pink noise. I think i'd rather spoon my own eye out even if i could bid and pay for it

The original DLP1R's came with a combined phono and ground lead (all moulded together) but they were crap and probably got chucked fairly quickly. That'll be why you weren't posting 'whats this spare bit of wire for' i suspect http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif

Sorry, but what meaneth all this...... QUOTE Even if your amp could run 2 ohms it would be stupid to run 3 pairs of speakers from it it just wont have the power to make them all sound good... it will get warm and it will clip and fry somthing if you turn it all up... If an amp is rated for 2R stereo load then it should have no problem at 2.67R (3 8R bins in parallel). It may run a bit warm but all amps will in the circumstances and it certainly shouldn't cause any problems. If the amp has enough power to drive the speakers effectively at 4R then it should only have slightly

If you're going to be using the kit often i'd recommend getting the Behringer DCX2496 Ultradrive. It'll do your crossover duty plus provide limiting, EQ, delays, etc so you won't be wanting any other bits of kit. By the time you've bought a x-over and then decided you need a comp/limiter, you're nearly up to the cost of a DCX anyway. Only prob is they're out of stock til May i think

The Behringer DI's can take up to 3kw of power iirc. Most other DI's should be at least as good but worth checking your chosen one first. Only powered cabs with additional speaker outputs can be used to power other passive cabs. Some manufacturers actually sellsets of one powered and one unpowered cab (although it escapes who they are now)

Are we talking about 'powered' speakers? Passive and active to me relates to the crossover used. You can get some powered speakers which have a second speakon output so that you can add a second unpowered speaker to the first, making better use of the internal amp in the first one.

More than likely, however you need to be careful of mixing up musical instrument drivers against PA drivers. Musical instrument drivers are often loved for the 'character' they bring with them, and the way they sound when overdriven or doing funny things with them. PA drivers need to be as faithful as possible, with as little colouration as possible, and as stable up to maximum operating levels as possible. I've heard many a 'PA' system loaded up with old guitar and bass amp drivers that should really never have seen the light of day.

I never said it was completely comprehensive!! http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif Yeah, large xmax and high efficiency make for a very good driver, as it can move a lot of air with less power required to do it. Sort of the holy grail! BL is also critical in sub and particulalrly horn loaded boxes. I love the PD range, Beyma also grace a lot of my system in the subs and compression drivers. PD in the rest. I should also have mentioned Fane in my post, they make/made lots of OEM parts for big names like Turbo, etc Andy, before you go out and buy those 2450's co