norty303

There's clearly no helping some folk... http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/rolleyes.gif That Delta speaker that was the only one i could find on maplins was even on a pressed chassis! You can buy cast chassis drivers for the same money! On the other hand, go to Maplins.....

Ok, sorry for the big copy and paste but i thought its useful for people here who aren't aware, exactly what some of the Thiele Small parameters refer to and how it can help in selecting a driver for the application. If the mods feel its too big please feel free to remove it. It was written with the novice speaker designer in mind but i think its applicable to most, especially if you care about how your show sounds. If not buy the cheapest driver that fits the box! :) QUOTE So what does it all mean. First I’ll give a brief description of what most of the useful T/S parameters mean and

QUOTE Even Peavey run Eminence drivers, my prefered choice (Maplin being UK distributer) You may save 5 k's in weight but just look at the power handling - and we are talking Root Mean Squared!! Exactly my point. In the scheme of things Peavey are not a great pro audio company, and their products are certainly not as good (sounding) as many others. RMS power ratings are not the be all and end all of a drivers characteristics and the difference between 300w and 400w is not that much. In comparison to other drivers the xmax is lower so it will tend to bottom out before other drivers, usin

Before you go spending your money on crap from Maplins, consider making this an actual upgrade rather than replacement. I'm assuming that the drivers you're looking at are Eminence. You can get a MUCH better driver from otgher manufacturers for only SLIGHTLY more money than the Eminence. I comparison to other drivers, Eminence really are the poorer cousins. With the newer drivers using stronger Neo magnets, you can also save yourself up to 5kg per driver. Something to consider when lugging boxes all the time. Look at offerings from P-audio, they supply a lot of OEM parts now for a lo

QUOTE Putting it in bridge mode will just give you more power and most likely put you into mono. You make it sound like there's some chance it might stay stereo! lol Don't forget that bridging an amp normally requires some rewiring as well as just flicking a switch as far as speaker connections go.

With a normal reflex type box, the nominal value will be derived from the type drivers and crossover fitted. Reflex loading doesn't have the ability to shift loading significantly enough to make that big a difference. With horn loading the size of the rear chamber in the horn and the front (compression) chamber and throat size can have a marked effect on the drivers dynamic impedance, even at low power levels. As i said, this is more for curiosity's sake than for any real use as i'm sure there aren't that many mobile jocks using horn loaded subs by virtue of the fact that you need to

QUOTE But this isn't important regarding nominal impedance for amp loading reasons.. But thats exactly what it is. Under those loading conditions the nominal load presented to the amp (under normal operating conditions) is different from what you'd expect by looking at the drivers' nominal rating. this was discovered by some users who found they were throwing HUGE amounts of power at some 12" horn subs (1700w per driver) because they thought it was an 8R load. When they found out that it was nearer 12R it went some way to explaining why they were taking so much power. People are now usin

Ok, ok, it's ben a long weekend!! OF course i meant mono :P Cross talk shouldn't be a problem on any decent amp. Most speakers come as 8R and some manufacturers do provide a 4R version. Based on this he'll only be running 4R for the tops so no problem unless the amp is REALLY bad

I think its worth considering that if the line of work is going to be more club oriented, then the brand of CDJ/Turntable is relevant. It's not going to be your kit you're playing on so what you own is irrelevant. Best to be used to playing on what is the 'industry standard' rather than what is considered to be 'the best' Thats why currently Technics and Pioneer hold the ground and sell the units, regardless of how good the Denons may be. I'm yet to come across a single Denon on my travels, either in an install or specced for a hire.

With a rig of that size you don't really need to make it idiot proof as it's unlikely anyone will ever dry-hire a rig of that complexity or size. I do stuff of that size or bigger and it takes 2-3 crew minimum anyway and a fair size van. Dry hires tend to be other compaies subbing in kit or someone booking you to come and do sound (either engineering or just system teching) I'd say stay away from an active rig of that size. The redundancy issues could cause problems. You're starting to get into big boys territory there so do what they do. It might also be worth checking out what other

You can also run 2 way active off one amp if you don't mind running stereo. Use one side for bass and one side of the amp for mid/tops. A lot of crossovers have the facility to put out a summed mono signal so you do include musical information from both channels of the stereo recording.

Also don't forget that the impedance is affected by the loading of the driver. Some horn cabs loaded with 8R drivers can actually present closer to a 12R load to the amp. It's great with some of the newer technology amps which can report all this stuff back to the user..... :) ;)

Hadn't realised the age of the poster, but i still stand by my comments. I bought some Soundlab DLP1's in 1992 (still in the garage actually, with original needles.... lol) and regreted it the first time i tried to use them with any system over 4k. Feedback and distortion were rife. Given my time again i'd not have bought all of the rubbish mixers and kit i did but invested once. My current mixer (DJM600) is 4 years old and gets used and abused by international techno DJ's regulalry and apart from some replacement knobs (do they steal the bloody things?!) its fine and dandy and going s

I take it back... ;)

I've found over the years that i should buy what i really want.... regardless of price! If you KNOW that a piece of kit is the required item, but it's out of your price range then simply wait or find a way to get it. I've thrown away so many useless pieces of junk in the past that i'm beyond buying more (if i can help it obviously! :) ) My advice is save up a bit and buy some second hand Technics 1200/1210's for £350-£450. You'll be able to use them for 5 years and get the same back for them then. Bet you can't say the same for the Stantons/Gemini's...

Assuming you're running 2 cabs off each side (doesn't matter the combination) then the amp will be running at 4R per side and at a guess it'll deliver 500w at this load (prob where the 1000 in the name comes from) It should be more than happy running like this providing nothing silly has happened like having a bridge mode button pressed or something, but even then it should only affect the sound (one channel has its polarity reversed causing cancellation) If the fans normally run all the time then its a problem if they've stopped. Some amps have temp sensors and only run the fans when t

If you connect 2 speakers together in parallel then the resistance (ohms) halves, so 2 8R speakers become a 4R load and 2 4R speakers become 2R. 3 8R speakers become 2.67R. Most speakers with 2 sockets will be wired for parallel operation. Amplifiers supply greater outputs as the resistance gets less. e.g. a QSC RMX2450 gives 750w at 4R per side and 500w at 8R. So if you connect 2 8R cabs to one side in parallel each cab will receive 375w (750 divided by 2, and this is distributed equally regardless of the rating of the speaker - 1 400w speaker and 1 200w speaker would each receive 375w

QUOTE Just the shape of the plastic bit that you hold when inserting/removing the plugs, and whether the outer connector is a continuous circle, or 4 separate "petals", forming a discontinous circle. So are you saying that phono are of one type and RCA the other? Or are you just highlighting that they phono/RCA connectors come in slightly different formats? I read it as the former, and if so, thats a new one on me! :)

Any good hifi store will let you borrow interconnects. Borrow some for a night and A-B them with some cheapy plastic red/white ones. If you can hear a difference then buy them. Otherwise save up for something else... Get a friend to swap the leads whilst you are blindfolded to remove any 'perceived' difference...

We use magic smoke over here for our repairs and it may be the case that they're interchangable.

Depends on if you're buying the top end JBL stuff or not. their lower end ranges are pretty poor to be honest as far as sound and build quality goes.

Eh? http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/huh.gif What cosmetic difference? RCA is the correct term for them, 'phono' is what everyone actually calls them, other than that they refer to the exact same thing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_jack

The money you pay for Van Damme and other pro touring cables is mainly in the sleeving rather than the core itself. Having cables that are easy to work is of great importance for efficient cleardown and packing. Any good copper core cable is suitable including mains of the correct cross-sectional area. Don't go overboard on getting gold connectors, the sonic difference is not all that and you can pay over the odds for it. If this is the kit that you bought off ebay (sorry if i've got you confused with someone else) then using gold connectors isn't going to help i'm afraid. QUOTE

If it's for mids/tops (or full range) up to about 1000w input power then you can use 2x2.5mm2 cable or 4x2.5mm2 cable. I use 4 core for all mine as i use the passthrough feature of 4 pole speakons to get power to where i need it without having to run extra cables. If its sub then use 4mm and short runs as has been said before. Try Canford Audio www.canford.co.uk or Van Damme Trading www.vdctrading.com for speaker cable off the reel. Look for part reel clearance at Canford, i got 4x4mm2 arctic cable for 97p per metre which is VERY cheap. Be careful though, it can be pricey. My speak

QUOTE peak power is the total amount of wattage the smallest (in wattage) driver can take before the cone rips or the coil melts. Nope, the power rating of a cab is normally just derived from the individual components as tested outside of that box by the manufacturer (and added some made up stuff as you say). So a 400w rms speaker might contain a 300w rms woofer and a 100w 1" compression driver. Whether that tells you anything about whether the comp driver will burn up before the woofer when you get over 800w into it is debatable - i'd put my money on the woofer, or even the crossover.