norty303

QUOTE I have now noticed that Martin Audio are appearing in nearly every bar i have been in. I think they sound good when a large amount of them are used, Does anybody else use them or have experience of using them before ?? I've only got experience of a VERY large amount of them, 16 of the WSX subs and 8 of the W8C tops. It was VERY nice......

Neutrik are just 'right' whereas so many others aren't 'quite' This goes doubly for Speakon connectors. I've had ones that the tabs are all the wrong size allowing reverse insertion (wrong pins contacting if using 4pole) and even fitting into a Powercon socket!! NO!!! The new FX Speakons are just a pure pleasure to use

I was going to mention Robe earlier, they're actually OEM for a number of other brands too iirc.

My point about using them in a working environment is that you're not generally monitoring like you would in a studio or live band situation. the HD25's have a great sound (IMO) and whilst the Denons may have a better sound, what is good about the Senns is that you can hear everything you NEED to hear when putting a mix together. All the right bits cut through whereas other headphones that extol flat response tend to just get lost when you've got 1000w of monitors screaming at you.

HD25, no others come close in terms of durability (and sound IMO) I've been through a number of different pairs over the years and the HD25's just kick the butt of everything else. I work with a lot of major dance DJ's and acts from around the world and i'd say that over 75% of them use the HD25. They are pricey but you won't spemnd the money again unless you lose them. They have a full range of spares available too so you can replace that lead you snagged on a flightcase catch whan packing up in a hurry. I've heard some not so great stories about the Pioneers. the only other headphon

DMX is not a simple plug and play format and it does take a bit of knowledge to set up. You'll also find that once you've got the controller to move the lights the hard part begins in the programming. I know lots of people who've bought into DMX and sold the lot on because it just wasn't what they were expecting. Having control means that you have COMPLETE control, the light will do nothing until you tell it to. It won't respond to music either unless the desk has sound to light built in. Even if it has Sound to Light it will only move the light between pre-programmed steps that you've en

Sure it's not .flac or been misnamed?

QUOTE the only other problem is they are in germany Where's the problem? They have a standard low rate of £10 for delivery to the UK and are a competent overseas retailer. Delivery is around 5 days normally. If you click the UK site at Thomann you'll get all of the Sterling prices. http://www.thomann.de/thoiw2_index.html?sn...54a85bb7e9a3dea

Also make sure all of the optics are still aligned. I had an Abstract light that got knocked and it misaligned the optics causing only half the beam to pass through the final lense to the mirror.

Prosoundweb is very American, and populated mostly by live sound people. They certainly have a way of looking down their noses at DJ's or nonmixed music styles. The American market is based very much on brands, especially for rider friendliness. They often quote JBL as being up there as far as 'pro' gear is concerned, whereas this side of the pond its not very well respected unless you're dealing with the top of range stuff - clearly SR is not a good system!! The benefit of buying big brands is generally for the support that they provide compared to smaller brands. Most of the big n

QUOTE I never heard of the driverack thing though New one on me, but perhaps something that I have just not come across... here's a link to a thread about them on ProSoundWeb. Near the bottom there's a link to another thread detailing the fixes one can do to cure them. http://srforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/...b634b5#msg_7532 You might need to copy/paste into address bar coz its wrapped I've done all the fixes on mine now, the last one was to reseat the ribbon connectors using switch cleaner in the process. Been clean as a whistle since. There was comments elsewhere

Seme Nedis is your place for spares. I've found the (previously poor) service has improved a bit now. If the switch itself is marked with a part number on the board try ringing them up for a replacement, the soldering is easily done and might be cheaper. Saying that £15 sounds VERY cheap for the whole board so i'd be inclined to go for that if the price is right.... I had a jog wheel pot go on one of my CDJ100's recently and that was £12 delivered which i thought was good. However it s still beyond me why the last quote for a single knob for my DJM600 was over £13 delivered!!!

The DCX and DEQ2496 have both got well documented probs with both I/O boards, and and board to board connections and component legs left too long so they touch the casing. My 8024ultracurve is still going very well though. Composers/Pro also seem to stand up well

QUOTE So it is impossible to say that you have not damaged a component in 10 years. I am sure that not everything you have built is still running. Some of the failures you just assume is normal will probably have been caused by static damage when the unit was built. That's a fairly sure thing with PC components though. Naturally PSU's and Hard disks fail due to mechanical breakdown. It happens in commercially built units all the time. I've yet to know of a mobo, memory or processor failure in any of my units where they haven't been junked for some other (obsolete) reason.

I'm sorry, i didn't make myself clear. I meant that by having the power cord connected you have a suitable place to discharge yourself prior to handling components. I was not suggesting that you should just dive in and rely on the fact you will touch the casing at some point. In 10 years of working like this i'm yet to kill a component.

You don't necessarily need an antistatic workstation or any fancy kit though. I custom build systems and i use the earthed casing as my earth by simply ensuring that i have the power supply connected to the electrical supply but switched off. That way it's only a case of touching the chassis to earth myself and this happens mostly by accident all the time you're working anyway. One thing to ensure first if working like this is to ensure that there is no other piece of equipment with an earth fault putting a current down the earth elsewhere. Not likely to get to you but better to be saf

If these are serious lights then its unlikely you'd run them off a 13amp plug anyway. A lot of the higher powered lights will be either hardwired or run off theatrical 15amp plugs. We used to run 4 GoldenScan HPE's and they used to draw serious power on fire up. Often there's a dimming cicuit, plus anything up to 8 wheels, with lots of those wheels having rotating fx on too, there's a fair bit of power needed.

QUOTE Blank plate is boring! But also just about the only thing that is virtually guaranteed to not introduce more noise or break at an inopportune moment! http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif How about a pull out rack light so you can see what you're doing? Or a really nice musical sounding compressor?

Do you actually need this or is it just for aesthetics? Bear in mind that by adding it into your signal chain you're going to introduce more noise into your signal, and with cheaper units you're likely to get more. 1U of meters isn't really going to give you the resolution to tell very much anyway. I suppose it comes down to whether you're trying to improve your sound or not

An alternative to the pyramid selling scheme. People will always lose out. Too good to be true....... http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/rolleyes.gif

When using the EP2500 in parallel mode the channel 2 inputs function as outputs. It says it in the manual on page 6 in the 'Parallel Mode' section. Even if using both inputs you can use the other connector (if going in on XLR come out on TRS jack or vice versa) to come out to another amp but you'll get a small drop in signal into the amp. Better to use parallel mode

Yup, c-mark are audiohead and t.amp also. EP2500 can be had for £169. Also consider 2nd hand QSC RMX2450

No the Gyroscans are the ones with rotating gobos

Not sure if the Colourscans are the same as the Gyroscans i bought off of you but they had 4 extra dip switches (11,12,13,14) which control the pan/tilt etc. By choosing the Pan only switch the 2 should reverse motion from the other 2 but you're then stuck with them like this. You won't be able to make them all move the same way unless you set the switches back. By setting up 2 scans on 2 separate head buttons you can programme them independantly. If you want to have them all doing the same thing then it's easy to copy settings from 1 head set to another. You then only have to reprogram

QUOTE Well did you get them ? If that was at me, not yet, but i did get another 1200w 2 x 18" sub, 2 more 15" 750w bass horns and a brace of QSC PLX 3402's so its not all bad http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif Noisier - YES!!! Sound quality - BETTER!! Bigger smile - YEEEESSSSSS!!!