norty303

At the risk of going WAAAAY over the top i could heartily recommend the A&H xone 464. It's a DJ desk but has quality 4 band EQ for the vocals and plenty of channels. http://www.allen-heath.com/DisplayProduct.asp?pview=16 Price may be an issue but it'll last you years and resell well

Don't forget that amplifiers don't draw anywhere near their wattage rating in normal use. If this was the case we'd all get away with running a whole lot less than we actually do off a 13A socket. It takes twice the amount of power to get a 3db increase so by running 1 led less (assuming its an accurate 3db scale) is actually pulling a whole load less power. e.g. I was running 7kw of amps off a single 13A socket flat out for a long time. 7000w/230v = 30.43A but how can this be i hear you cry!!!? One of the main things you need to consider is the smoke machine as this will spike

But as were in the business of sound its the bits that produce the sound that are most important.

A more effective way to hook 2 amps/4 speakers to 1 mixer would be to run the amps in parallel mode either using a switch or linking through the inputs. Connect the left output to one input on amp 1 and parallel/link thru and do the same on the other side for the right output from the mixer. You've then got 1 amp running left and one amp running right. However you may be spending money you don't need to. By running an extra set of speakers off each side of the amp you have you should be able to run the amp with a 4ohm load (assuming your speakers are 8ohms - which most are) which means i

There are so many companies doing plastic cabs now. they all look the same and have varying sound quality. Lots have drivers made for them by people like eminence, p-audio, etc and can sound good but it's a bit of a lottery. Your ears are the best thing to judge. If the company quotes peak ratings that are less double the rms then be a bit suspect as it suggests inflated figures somewhere or weak drivers. Any good pro audio driver will generally have 2 x peak to rms ratings. The crossovers can sometimes be weak part. Studiospares http://www.studiospares.com/ is a good company selling

For generators to run sound equipment from i'd recommend diesel every time as petrol ones run more unstably. I know a lot of people who have had amps killed by petrol generators. I can put you in touch with someone who imports cheap diesel gennies if you like. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Oh, and manufacturers should use alternative power connectors than the IEC6 (kettle lead). Neutrik do an excellent Powercon connector like the speakon plugs but with pegs in different places so you can't mix them up. They twist lock just like the speakons. Just had a VERY inaccessible IEC6 pull out whilst doing some maintenance on an amp rack and had to remove loads to re-fit it. Imagine if that was on a gig.... Things like that are deal winners for me http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif

So you'll be wanting a new controller now then..... http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/whistling.gif http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/smile.gif

A number of amps without binding posts.... just got another one today, costing me a fortune in NL4FX's when they're permanently in a rack! DMX lighting that has great features but the reverse pan option doesn't work when in DMX mode necessitating setting up 2 channels for the opposite lights and double the programming/copying. My biggest complaint is that speaker manufacturers generally don't provide enough data about their products. '40hz - 20khz' is NOT good enough!!! We need frequency response plots and details on f3, f6 and f10 points to properly evaluate a product. They do it fo

Not sure if you've tried this but have you reset all dip switches to off and then switch on switch 1 on all of them (I'm assuming that their channels run 1-4 not 0-3) and leave every other option off for the time being.

Have you tried moving the position of No.2 scanner so it's at the end of the chain or at the start. Does it only effect any light downstream from the No.2 scanner? Might well be that the DMX out from scanner 2 is faulty.

Just had this response from a mate on another forum who has a lot of the BASYS stuff so i thought i'd paste it here for your information QUOTE I can tell you from the Void Basys systems that I have some of the specs. The amp is flight cased and has a built in active crossover and also has limiters and other protection built in. To connect the speakers together you get 2 x 4 core 8 meter spaekon cables that carry both bass and mid/top to the speakers. You then have 2 x 2 core cables that loop from the bins to the 2 tops. You also get the poles for sitting the tops above the bins,

A friend does lighting for a living and has a wireless remote that he uses. It allows him to wander the venue to see how everything looks from FoH. It also adds an interactive element for the crowd when he asks them if they want a go. The looks on peoples faces when they realise they've got the whole lighting rig at their fingertips whilst out partying is priceless!! http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif I'll find out if it's his own prototype or a commercial product

As Gary says, an anti-tamper panel is a good buy but get a perforated one so you can still see what's going on with the compressor. Terralec might be a bit better for price than Canford too. I'd be curious to know why the amp blew through hard use if it was mine. The usual thing to go is the driver in the speaker. Amps normally cutout first on one of the safety circuits (thermal in this case i would think) The common things that kill amps are short circuits in the speaker wiring but even then they should have protection for that too. Are you running a lot of speakers off of this amp?

Same with any driver 21" or larger... real woman puller.... Useless for anything else but then why else would you buy a 21" woofer in the first place.... Same reason as old men buy Ferrari's

Personally i'll always have MANY amps, the larger, heavier and more butch looking the better http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/tongue.gif Lots of kit with many flashing lights (preferably RED!!) that is only plugged to the mains and a (too hot) audio signal into it. The laydees love it I tell you.....

Yeah, versatility (and higher SPL) and redundancy protection all the way with passive designs, just run them fully active (ditch the passive x-overs) to really get the best out of them!! http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif but enough OT... If you're going to get a single case to house all of your stuff, make sure you get one big enough so you can leave a 1U or greater space between the amps and any other processing gear because of heat issues.

Take a look at the case at the bottom of the page http://www.proaudioparts.co.uk/index.php?id=void The front and rear covers come off to form surfaces either side of the mixer. The lower part houses amps, CD drawer units, processing, etc. A bit pricey but good quality gear with some room for expansion. Only a single unit to transport around though which is all good. You could probably get a padded tray to sit your laptop in for transporting too.

The fuller and richer sound could be attributable to the fact that they're 4ohm cabs and they're getting a significant chunk more power than your previous boxes. Nice to see that they're using ply rather than mdf for the cabs - much more durable in a mobile environment and only slightly worse sonically. Lighter too. Can't make out the drivers, look like a Fane type chassis but you never know who's copying what these days. Only way to tell for sure would be to pop one of the woofers out and see what it is. Of course, with all these things, if it sounds better then it is better regardless

The Behringer amps are great value for money and are one of the few at that price that are stable at 4ohm bridged. I own an EP2500 which has never given any problems and a friend has 2 installed in a club in Nottingham that run flat out driving a 4ohm bridged load week in week out for the last 18 months. Click the link for an in depth review by someone who wanted to know just how they performed rather than believing the uninformed rubbish that gets written about them (a lot of pro audio guys really slate Behringer for their lack of reliability and copying of designs) http://srforum.pr

ProAudioParts are retailers i believe due to their links with Void and they too are based in Poole iirc http://www.proaudioparts.co.uk/ The install stuff and transparent co-axial monitors are something else. The 21" bandpass sub was really, really low at Plasa http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/biggrin.gif

Sorry, my bad. I was going to say you could do a lot worse than these actually... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...7316692475&rd=1 However if you're looking for a complete system you could do a whole lot worse than a Void Basys system. Comes complete with amp (3 channels - 2 stereo tops and a sub out) 2 tops and 2 15" bins. http://www.voidaudio.com/BASYS.asp They're an English company based in Poole and currently make some of the most drool worthy touring cabs and have just released this small mobile setup at Plasa. I can put you in touch with someone who's

£1200 for a pair of subs will get you some serious kit. I'd be looking at stuff loaded with PD, P-Audio, Void, some of the better JBL range (but they're expensive and are outperformed by cheaper drivers), RCF, Beyma, B+C or similar quality. Look at the more exotic loadings too such as bandpass and horn. You'll get a much better frequency response and higher SPL than from a reflex box. Will your amp drive 4ohms bridged? If so you'll be best off running the pair off the bridged amp than stereo. You don't say if your amp gives the 750w @ 4ohms or 8ohms. If it's 8ohms you should be ok in

Yep, and you could do the home builds a lot cheaper too, £175 per driver really will get you some great kit but you could go for a lot less and still get a superb driver. What subs were you thinking of for £700 odd quid?

Ever thought about building/having them built? A pair of good quality drivers will be around £350 and materials will be around another £200. Pay around £200 labour charges and you could have a good looking and very good sounding pair of boxes for £750. Subs are not a black art to design. Bass reflex boxes are simple to do and there are a number of great horn and bandpass designs out there for free. You can also vary dimensions so that they fit your storage/transport needs and play the frequencies you need them to. The real skill comes with getting mids and tops to work right which