norty303

We had a similar thread on speakerplans about going low and loud and the FK1 Infrabass was touted as an example. However it does use a very specific OEM driver to ge the results. Not many companies make an off the shelf driver with the require T/S because there's simply not much desire for it. Also, its a one trick pony, it really needs a bass box above it to provide the definition and punch. The most novel, and probably likely approach to making lots of noise down low without blowing the bank? This came from Rog Mogale, the Void Acoustics designer who said he would build a load of

Personally i'd go for the smaller more efficient design. Despite what people think, DnB doesn't have that much low content beneath 40hz. The smaller design will sound better to as the group delay will be less (the graphs should bear this out) I'd be looking at some of those other graphs at this point, particularly the excursion one. If you have low excursion at rolloff/port tuning then you can get away with boosting the low end to increase the gain in this area. It's how a lot of bigger manufacturers cheat with their own dedicated processors. Using something like an Ultradrive/Drivera

It's worth bearing in mind that the cheaper hazers are just smoke machines on low output with a fan fitted. The fluid is the same. You can buy a fan to disperse your smoke machine output more which will have the same effect as a hazer. If you want a proper hazer (and they are good) then look to spend £500+

I'll start by saying that i own a number of Mertin lights and like them all (bar the Ego range that have a tendancy to blow boards that makes them uneconomical to repair) It's worth bearing mind that Martin buy themselves a lot of market share through their marketing tactics. The reason why lots of venues and touring companies have them is because they offer great deals to installers and touring co's alike. When the Mac500 came out they virtually gave away lots to the big companies which lead to them being the 'industry standard' moving head for a long time. Whether they were better th

There was a recent discussion on another pro audio forum amongst sound company operators about speakon couplers and the effect they have on the audio signal. It was the generally accepted opinion that you should use cables of the correct length to cover the run required rather than use smaller cables connected together. It makes sense that a piece of 2.5mm/4mm cable carries the signal better than running through touch connections and the theory is sound for signal cables as well. It also reduces the number of potential points of failure.

One thing to bear in mind, in such a small space you're going to only need very low power lights. LED's make sense as they also give off very little heat. Knowing how much heat 4 discharge lamps give off in my living room after 15 mins, you'd also need to consider heat proofing the walls and ceiling where they would be mounted.

To be honest, the audible difference between 2 cables is negligible. If its going to be plugged in and left like it then get cheap ones, the cable will be fine. If it's going ot be unplugged regularly then spend a bit more purely because the connectors will be nicer to use and more durable. Buying good cable is all about the sheath, it'll be nicer to coil and won't tangle so easily, other than that, the actual copper is a minor point. I buy the cheapy Skytec cables for both long runs of DMX and audio and they hold up fine for festivals and other work and you won't hear the differen

High quality from an audible sense or from a durability sense?

Depends on your perspective. Most lighting operators will be out 'front of house' and so any movement will be reversed anyway. Also, most decent desks will be able to flip attributes or at least the map function of any stick/wheel so it should be correctable there.

The Freekie does i believe allow you to have multiple chases/shows/cue stacks running at the same time. The most common way of using this is to have all colour attributes on one chase, movement on another, gobos on another, etc. You can then mix and match things as you require e.g. all beams still with no gobo and red or, the same but all beams circling, etc

The higher range Antari foggers are actually not too bad, the Z3000 falling into this category. However, it would need to be a really silly good deal for me to buy one over one of the Stairville offerings, which give very similar specs, but at a fraction of the price. We have been, and will be, using Stairville on festival stages over the summer. Add the cost of a fan and you have something that is approaches what a hazer will give you (and many cheaper hazers are not really hazers, only a fogger with a fan fitted)

Only if it actually existed in the first place. You can't get more than there actually is. Partition Magic, for all its good points, doesn't work real magic. In my experience, where Partition Magic has failed, Paragon Partition Manager has done the business, and seems to be a better product all round

Funny, I've got some aging amps that suffer from none of those problems despite lack of regular maintenance. Perhaps this is where buying better quality kit in the first place pays dividends in the future?

Most mixers in this sort of price range (and many above) have inputs on XLR for mic and line is a mono jack. If you are going to go in on XLR then you'll need to go via a DI box, or you'll be trying to put a line level signal into a mic pre-amp. I suspect that your desk won't have a suitable pad to enable you to connect a line to a mic channel. So i would say that you need to go from 3.5mm to 2 mono jacks plugged into either 2 mono channels or a single stereo channel, or set PCDJ up so that it puts a summed mono signal out to each of the L/R channels and only use one of them (as per my

If you are going to use just a single output from your laptop, make sure that your software or hardware is capable of producing a summed mono signal. There is nothing worse than hearing just a left or right channel of a stereo track that uses judicious panning.

I don't think you're expecting too much of the lights, although you may be expecting too much of the controller. If you record a step/cue/patch by selecting each of the heads individually and setting the parameters for each, do you achieve the desired output? If yes, then you have achieved what you want, but may have discoved the programming limitations of the controller. From experience i can honestly say that if you wish to do anything worthwhile with your lights, you either need to spend a long time programming your controller, or upgrade your controller to a 'proper' DMX desk. The

Have you looked at this http://www.pslx.co.uk/Datafiles/Mad/MADScans.pdf First question really is have you used other lights successfully on this controller and are you experienced with using DMX and the controller in question, or is this a first attempt? I'm trying to rule out user error first here. Also, the bootup would suggest that it is in fact a variant of the 511, however that is a barrel type effect not a scan. Can you confirm the details? Perhaps they re-used the 511 board in the later lights. My Chamsys fixture file says that the Qscan is a 5 channel scan with t

Are you using a laptop?

From the info i can find online, your speakers are rated at 4ohms per cab, both subs and tops. However the owners manual says that even with tops connected the minimum impedance will be 4ohms at the amp so you're running them within limits, although underpowered for the whole setup (I'd say you'd want an amp that gives 750w - 1000w per side at 4ohms really) which is why you're experiencing the clip light. If the amp is cutting out (thermalling) when driven into clip then I'd suggest its not a great amp or something else may be wrong. If one of the mid drivers has 'partly' blown it may b

And to put that into a real world context about distortion, here's some 100hz sine waves I ran through a DJM600 with different levels of gain. The first is within normal operating levels (a couple of red lights on the input channels, none on the output side). The second is with everything at full, both the input channel leds and master output leds were on permanently and all the way up. You can see the physical shape of the wave changes. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/substance/allmaxatthalf.jpg http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/substance/allmax.jpg

NO! The critical piece in all of this is the amp and if it's clipping or not. Having a mixer hitting some red lights is not going to be damaging (it might sound poo) unless you're really caning the amp as well and then its normally the HF that goes. Don't forget its possible to have amixer showing red lights constantly without an amp even being connected so you know from that, that the correlation between mixer output and amp output are not exclusively tied together. So your statement would be correct if it said.....

It's not being nosey. You can't possibly answer his question without knowing the answers to those questions. Describing an amp as '1200w' is like me asking if my car will drive up a mountain. It might do, depending on if its 4x4, got a big enough engine, etc, etc. What power does your amp give at 4R and 8R per side? If it will do 2R loads, what power does it give at those loads PER SIDE? I'll give you £50 if you can blow my subs with a 100w rated amp. As Andy said, it's ALWAYS watts. For example, a small amp of say (rated power) 250w will give

It's been an unfortunate consequence of the acquisition that both Fane and PD product lines have been shrunk - one of my favourite 12" drivers is not longer produced either. However, the alternative could have been much worse. After the flood at Fane, lots of old stock and equipment was destroyed and it's probably rationalisation of resources with PD that has lead to this situation. They simply couldn't continue to make all of the old products with their existing resources, and probably not the money to fund massive expansion. The supply of some drivers (PD1850, PD154, etc) has been ve

I had a similar problem recently, Royal Mail took ove a month to deliver a pair of car speakers to my buyer. Understandably he was P:cense:d off and lodged an issue for non-receipt. As they were cheap i sent them without recorded delivery and as i only had a Post office slip as proof of postage i suspect they would've found in his favour. Luckily they showed up at the last minute. In future I will ALWAYS insist that items are sent recorded/insured/etc purely to cover myself. It is the only option offered and if the buyer doesn't like it they can go elsewhere. those are the terms.

You should use an appropriately rated secondary fixing. As most of the clips used on chains are not rated its now considered that chains are not a suitable (although thats not to say that they won't do the job, or be used by a lot of people/companies) In short, if you're buying new, buy bonds rather than chains.