richard stringer
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Posts posted by richard stringer
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Dpends on how many people you're wanting to provide sound for. If you're wanting to use them to provide sound for 200 people then no, they're not gonna be good enough in my opinion (if you want decent spl output), but if you're wanting to use them in your house for house parties then they will be good enough. When I heard them I wasn't impressed really. The SP118 would be a better choice to be honest.
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If you're gonna get an active sub i'd stay away from Mackie because their product reliability is very poor these days. Ever since Greg Mackie sold the company to Loud Technologies, it's gone down hill and now the company in my and a lot of other people's opinions who i've talked to, is not a hell of a lot more reliable than Behringer. Loud Technologies moved manufacturing to China and then started using cheap quality parts in the Mackie equipment. I spoke to a shop about 3 months ago who said they had a whole bunch of Mackie SRM1801 subs come back in for repair because every single one failed. Then on youtube i've spoken to numerous people who've had repair after repair after repair. On other forums i've spoken to various people who've had enough because they've spent a lot of money on Mackie gear only for it to fail. My friend bought 2 Mackie HD1531 cabs and they failed on him. He had them repaired and they failed again during a gig that time. That was it, game over, gig over. That really P****d him off because he was lucky people at thge gig understood, you never know whether your gear failing could ruin your reputation.
Anyway, the best sub i've heard for it's price is the JBL PRX618S-XLF. It's quite expensive but it's an excellent sub and has JBL's fantastic 2268 driver in it, which is the same driver JBL use in their mighty SRX and VRX series subs. The RCF Art905AS is a great sub but the JBL goes down lower into the frequency response so if it were me, i'd personally go for the JBL.
mjmac,
The 130db spl output figure is a Peak spl rating, not continuous, so there's no way you'd actually get 130db out of it. Most specs for spl output are calculated, and calculated spl specs are wildly inaccurate. Mackie demonstrated this when they released their HD series cabs and subs. They measured the REAL maximum spl output of their cabs and subs alongside competitors and the REAL spl output figures wer as much as 14db lower than the calculated specs. Generally, if you take about 8-12db off the calculated Peak spl spec of a cab or sub it'll give you a good idea of how much spl you'll REALLY get. Like I say, Mackie measured their HD series cabs and subs, and also a competitors too. The Mackie HD1531 for example has a rated calculated spl output spec of 135db Peak, but when Mackie measured it's maximum spl output they saw a reading of 126db at the onset of clipping. This means that 126db is the REAL maximum spl output of that specific cab and shows you how inaccurate calculated spl specs are. Have a look here :
http://www.mackie.com/products/hdseries/pdf/HD_REAL_SPL.pdf
I did some tests myself on my JBL MRX515 cab which has a calculated Peak spl of 130db, and I measured the cab's maximum spl output, C weighted and in full space and saw a reading of 122dbc. That once again shows you that calculated spl specs can't be trusted. The reason why manufacturers use them is because calculated specs are a perfect way for the manufacturer's marketing department to make their speakers look louder (on paper) than other speakers.
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Well i purchased them today (got them down to £150 for the pair).
(I struggled to find any reviews on line - i gave up after page 6 of google results)
Very very impressed, lovely clear proper & decent sound with great bass, very loud and they look good.
The whole 2nd hand cash converter thing is a bit of a worry but fingers crossed.
My only gripe is that i have to use two power leads/plug sockets to power the thing/s which may seem a bit over the top for home use!
If you think they're good you should check out the Yamaha HS80M, now they're REAL studio monitors, the Intimidation ones are pretty crap i'mn affraid to say. I used to have a professional commercial recording studio for 4 years and made dance music. I used quite a few monitors in my time, like the Macvkie HR824mk1, Dynaudio BM15A, Mackie HR624mk1, Alesis M1 Actives mk2 and KRK RP6. Using studio monitors for dj'ing at home is great because studio monitors generally have a more linear frequency response and are generally more accurate than hi-fi so you can more clearly hear details in mixes, songs, movie soundtracks, you name it, that are masked by dips and peaks in the frequency response of hi-fi and less accurate speakers. This means that you can more clearly hear when basslines of two records are clashing and more clearly hear when beats are drifting. This makes beat matching a lot easier.
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I'm selling a Rane TTM56 dj mixer, in mint condition, here's the link guys :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT
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On my Sub is low pass filter with dial for 50hz to 120hz
On my tops is the option to EQ to cut which is suggested in the user's guide for use with subs, however they also say not to use it with a high pass filter on a sub as you get a poor crossover match.
Sould I use the eq cut setting with the low pass filter? Or should it be set flat?
What sub and mid/highs do you have? If you have subs and mid/highs (tops in other words) then it's best to use a low pass filter if there's one on the sub, in this case i'd like to know what mid/highs you have before I could tell you what frequency to set the sub's low pass filter to. Normally about 80-100hz is the best frequency, but in this case I don't know what tops you have so don't know what kind of eq they have on them, if it's parametric or just a high pass filter. One way you could be absolutely sure to get the best crossover frequency and filter slope is to use (if you have one) an analogue crossover like the Dbx 223XL, all you'd do then is connect the sub and tops to it and select the frequency on the Dbx crossover.
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I'm selling 2 EV QRX212 speaker cabinets. These badboys are totally tour grade cabs and are VERY loud. Here's the ebay auction.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=130435254039
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I'm selling 2 brand new Celestion QXi-315 3-way professional speaker cabinets and a used but in good condition JBL MPX1200 amplifier. The Celestion cabs i got for £550 a pair and have only used them on low in my flat, but did have them on full for 10 seconds and they sound excellent, the 6" midrange driver makes the clarity excellent, and they're LOUD too. They're brand new and I got them from a stock clearence from the Celestion factory because they dont make the QXi cabs anymore. I havent got transport so couldn't get to use them properly in a hall or anywhere. I bought the JBL MPX1200 amp for £580 and its a QSC amplifier that was made specially for JBL to power their SR series speaker cabs when they were out. The amp sounds fantastic and is very stable into 2 ohms as well, thats what QSC told me when i enquired, but top quality is what QSC are all about so anyone who knows QSC will know its a brilliant amp. In total, the system cost me £1,120 but i'm selling it for £800 so whoever buys it will be getting a fantastic bargain. Here's the specs :
Celestion QXi-315
Frequency Response : 40hz-20khz
Power handling : 400 watts rms
Sensitivity : 100db
Impedance : 8 ohms
JBL MPX1200
800 watts per chanell into 8 ohms
1,200 watts per channel into 4 ohms
1,600 watts per channel into 2 ohms
Anyway, here's the ebay auction :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT
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I'd love to go but haven't got any transport. I'm getting a van in the new year to transport my system to and from venues so i'll be going to the 2011 Plaza, definately.
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If I was you i'd save up for a pair of these :
http://www.jpgelectronics.com/pp/Cabinet_S...er_Cabinet.html
They're damn good sound quality for what they are, and the price is excellent. They use Celestion FTR series drivers which are the same drivers used in the now discontinued QSC HPR series of active cabinets and they got amazing reviews everywhere especially in the usa from everyone who bought them. I'd personally advise you to save up, and dont buy the Soundlab cabs because Soundlab are garbage.
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I think Skytec equipment is very poor quality, my friends have got Skytec and RCL subs and speakers and they sound AND look garbage.
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I'm strictly a vinyl dj myself but I think next year i'm gonna have to start playing mp3 I think because I need to back up all my precious 1992-1995 oldskool hardcore rave vinyl which are very rare and costly to replace and the more I play them, the less they're worth, so my choice is
PC DJ. Decent CD decks that are excellent for scratching on (I like big spinning platters) are expensive so i'm gonna get myself Rane Serato I think.
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I normally stay away from cheap gear but I have to say from the videos on youtube these Dynamo scanners dont look too bad at all. I'd rather have a 4 head Martin SCX600 scanner system but jeez, thats pricey, and a 4 head Dynamo system only costs £435 from here :
http://www.getinthemix.co.uk/4-Head-ACME-D...att-Package.htm
So I really dont think you can argue at all. Add some haze and they would look nice. In fact these are probably the scanners i'll get next year whehn I start doing parties again until I can afford 4 Martin SCX600 scanners.
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Interesting...a few months ago a dealer advised me that the bass from the Series 7 speakers was a bit disappointing and a new range would be out soon to address this....looks like this is it.
That might have something to do with RCF intending on the 7 series being used with the 705AS subs. Some manufacturers purposely make their mid/highs light in the low frequency range or have high pass filters built in like the DB Technologies Arena Pro series of which the 152 2-way cabs are at -3db down at 70hz which says to me they're designed to be used with subs. RCF's Acustica C5212 and C5215 cabs are the same, with them being -3db at 65hz and -3db at 55hz respectively, so they're onbiously designed to be used with the S8018 and S8028 subs.
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Hi Dave
I am on the lookout for some. What are you asking for them?
I very much dislike Peavey's Hi-Sys series, I used to have a pair of Hi-Sys 4xt cabs, the newer versions with the grey grilles and they were one of the most harsh speaker cabinets i've ever heard, i'm glad they're gone. Now i've got a pair of EV QRX212 cabs and they're so much better and totally rape the Hi-Sys 4 cabs for sound quality and spl output.
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Thanks Dukesy,
I expected as much but thought going up an extra 200 watts may have been possible but ill leave it now.
Looking elsewhere i see that wharfdale are selling a sub with bi amp option - ideal for me as i use an active crossover but bigger cabs mean i need a new vehicle!
The issue aren't going up in wattage so much, but are more to do with the resonant tuning frequency of the driver and the enclosure. If you put a 600 watt driver in there it might not sound as good as the 400 watt driver due to the 600 watt driver having a different resonant frequency to that of the 400 watt driver. The result could be reduced sound quality and reduced spl output of the upgraded sub.
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Buy a sub for the ocasional gig where you need it whether it's the SRM or RCF's.
Well the Mackies sound better in my opinion but the the company is on the ropes at the moment and have been in financial difficulty for a while so the company could very well go bust in the next few years meaning you can kiss goodby to support or spare parts or repair un warranty so i'd say go with Behringer. Although better than that i'd personally rather save up more money and get myself a pair of RCF Art 325A or second hand QSC HPR152i.
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Yes, the available power will not be reduced - the system gain will be reduced. Gain is the amount of voltage amplification which a signal undergoes. Absolute maximum power available is unaffected. If your mixer/preamp generates a very high signal the speakers will be damaged. In conclusion speakers don't blow because of underpowering but because of pushing amps past there limit which puts out way more power than it's rated and overpowers the speaker. Clipping the amp will not blow the speaker if the amp is not overpowering the speaker.
Match your amps to your speaker sets ( watts and Ohms), run the amps at maximum and make sure the output from your mixer is not permantanly in the red zone.
Running the amps at maximum is only really ideal when you think people might touch the amp's attenuators, so you sart with them on maximum so people cant turn them up anymore, but this reduces dymanic range and so its not something that I ever. I always set gain structure with a pink noise test tone run through the system (make sure you disconnect the speakers first) and then go along the line adusting the gain controls and faders so that each piece of equipment clips at the same level, then all you do is turn the front end gain control down and the rest of the system stops clipping, and bang there you go all your equipment is gain matched. Doing this makes it very easy to make sure you know for definate you're not running the system into clipping.
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The MX115 are a better cab than the LX15, you should try and listen to a pair, they're not bad at all for Wharfedale really. I say not bad for Whrfedale because they're a budget brand generally.
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The 2 main causes of driver failure are mechanical failure due to over excursion and thermal failure. The 1st mechaznical is from driver over excursion meaning the driver is being pushed past the limits of excursion that it was designed for and the 2 is too much power through the driver which burns out the voic coils in the drivers. You cant blow a driver by turning your amplifier down as long as you turn it down to the point that the driver isn't being put under mechanical stress and as long as you're not putting too much power through the driver. If you set gain structure before an event or gig and then keep levels well below clipping you should be ok 99% of the time.
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Yes and side by side in a comparison the RCF's would win hands down over most speakers I am sure,
Well I wouldn't exactly that, RCF make damn good speakers but a set of Turbosound Milan cabs are better than say, the RCF Art525A. Regarding clients probably not being able to tell, I know a lot of people in my town who dont know :cense: about speakers comment to me how good the sound quality is, so I think you need to give clients also, the benefit of the doubt that they might very well be able to tell, I mean anyone who knows what good sound is will know. Just because they dont comment on the sound being good doesn't mean they cant tell.
Norfolk DJ,
I wouldn't say B&C are the best in the world because there's so many driver manufacturers out there that are top quality, like RCF, JBL, Precision Devices etc...
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How much?
Depending on how much you've got to spend in your budget, you could have a look at Nu-Light lasers, they're not cheap chinese made lasers like Kam, Acme, Laser Uk (a uk base company which has its manufacturing in china) and ones of that nature. The Nu-Light lasers are more money but safer and better quality.
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I've never heard QSC's cabs, i've rang around shop after shop and no-one's got any in for demo, but the best active speaker cabs i've ever heard for a reasonable price, say under £1,300 each are the JBL PRX series and RCF's Art series. I've heard Skytec, RCL, American Audio, Kam, Gemini, Warrior Audio and many other cheap garbage manufacturers and really wasn't impressed with any of them.
The best active cabs i've ever heard for about £1,000 are the JBL PRX series. I've heard many Skytec, RCL, Kam, Behringer, Warrior Audio, Wharfedale and and few other cheap manufacturers and really wasn't impressed with them at all. I think for the money for a 15" 2-way cab JBL's new PRX615 should be a good bet, either that or RCF Art525A. I've heard a pair of Art series before and was definately impressed with them. I didn't like the Mackie SRM450, I thought they sounded less than impressive but the SRM450v2 to my ears sounded a bit better. I absolutely hated the JBL Eons, I thought sounded total garbage.
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pricewise they are in the FBT maxx4A bracket and RCF 322 or 325A so I assme they score heavily on weight
I used to have a pair of the older Opera 602 and they sounded really nice, but once you start to push them a bit the sound does suffer terribly from signal compression due to running out of headroom. They're not in the same league as the RCF Art series, no way. Sound quality is quite a bit better on the RCF and I can say that from experience of hearing the Art series. I very much doubt the newer 605D you're talking about will be a massive improvement over the 602 I used to have, but for the money they are very nice speakers. Just set gain structure properly first and then dont run past the 0db light on the dj mixer and you'll have good sound quality.
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Take a look on www.speakerplans.com this is a speaker building site frequented by people who run rigs for the sort of music you want to play through your rig, they have a used equipment section, theres usually someone selling a rig that would suit rave/techno etc.
Thanks i'll check it out.
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That's good advice because Intimidation gear in my personal opinion is *********. The Yamaha HS80M at £195 is priced each monitor, not a pair, but they're excellent monitors for their price really, and easily good enough to be used for serious music production if you've got adequate acoustic material on the walls of your studio. Well i'm happy that you're happy with your Intimidation monitors, if you ever need anymore help choosing any monitors, don't be affraid to ask and i'll help out wherever I can.