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the thing to note here is that some of the cheaper end of active speakers are crap. they have no depth in sound. if you want some actives, best bet is to get down to your local DJ shop and have a listen to some. you will need to invest in a decent set to get a good sound. for your budget, you will get a decent passive set of speakers, perhaps some NJDs (maybe the NJ581) which have celestion drivers and sound really well with the right amp. personally, unless i was buying absolute top end actives, i would buy passives and an amp. HTH

just which one of those two come under the 'basic' tag? tongue out icon personally, i would go for the CDN 88. its built well and is value for money.

this has been a theory i have used for a long time. for example, if you take two cables, one that sells for £1.50/m and one that sells for £7.50/m both with a copper CSA of 2.5mm and you take two equal lengths and you apply a resistance test to each end and take the resistance of both, the results will be very similar. cable does tend to vary with regards to the insulation around it and the way in which it is shielded, it has to when considering such things as voltage and signal drop over a considerable length - but as you say, copper is copper and has the conductivity and resistance as a

your honour, the term professional is too loosely accepted in society, therefore i do not use such a tag with regards to myself. i am a DJ and being a DJ is my second income and i aim to do the job to the very best of my ability . I have registered my DJ company "A N Other discos " with the shirts in london and i do not earn more than £4430 per financial year from my second income! tongue out icon

having retailed all of the above, i came to the conclusion that the Total control by numark is better than the other 2. it comes with specifically engineered software, an option of a DJiO (external sound card) for mic and monitor - but the coll thing is, you dont need the DJiO because the TC has a boat load of inbuilt mixing aid tools to help you create the perfect mix. Also if you want to 'do it properly' you can turn the mixing aid tools off and mix the proper way. if you want to spend more money and get something a bit more professional, again, its numark gear and check out the DMC2 (w

Firstly, you want an amp & speaker set up in the other room. then get a couple of phono splitters in your master out on the mixer, run on set of phonos to the main amp and the other set to amp in the other room. you now have sound in the other room and a means of controlling the volume. if you want more control over various gains put a small mixer in series with the audio feed from the main room and your amp in room 2. couple of phono splitters will cost you a couple of quid or so, as long phono lead - a fair custom lead specialist will make you a 20m one for around £

for something that is the latest technology and seemingly good. a retail price of around £150 suggest to me that it wont be much kop. it has already been exposed for only being able to produce so many alphanumerics at any one time, which would leave pretty much all messages in several parts. if you're going to be putting single words like 'party'...'welcome' or 'hello' then it will probably be ok. however if you wish to put along the lines of 'hello im your DJ, joe bloggs. i hope you have a great evening' youre going to be there all night waiting for it to scroll round. id defi

i dont know the exacts of the cabs in question, i went on the presumption that they were 4 ohms - which i mentioned in my post. if they are 8 ohms is does put the rest of my post into debate. but like i say, i went on the presumption of 4 ohms and gave an option considering such!

whilst i dont doubt your professional knowledge, what i gave as an example above i have actually known of happening- not to me thankfully and an insurance comany went down this avenue and gave such a reason. i dont know if the person followed the quote up or what the outcome was. but the company certainly attempted to knock the claim back on such grounds.

you have a conflict of interests here - your calculations are dangerously wrong! firstly you need to take some precautions. if the amp is spec'd to give 2400 w RMS @ 4 ohms you need to run off 4 ohms per channel. giving you 1200w RMS/chanel @ 4 ohms however, you are proposing to use 2 x subs and 2 x tops rated at 300w RMS each (presumably at 4 ohms each?) which you would presumably be running 1 sub and 1 top per channel,. giving you 600w RMS per channel running at 8 ohms (resistors in series at added) so now you need to run your amp at 8 ohms to accomodate your speaker requirements

What they dont tell you is that should you replace the schuko with a 13A UK spec mains plug and plug it in you are in breach of electrical safety if you havnt had the alteration tested to certain regulations. lets say, worst case scenareo, youve plugged the gear in that youve altered the plug on, and it causes a fault leading to an electrical fire. suddenly you need to claim on your insurance - but wait, you policy is now invalid because you havn't follow correct electrical safety procedure. its serious red tape! but it could end up costing you a lot of money for what? an 80p plug?!?

Im pretty sure they festoons that are used as close circuit protection, god knows why when a fuse would do the same job. like i say i carnt remember exactly what the protection method is, but if its not festoons it'll be fuses or fusable links! whichever the case may be, if they are blown, it might be a good idea to0 have it repaired by an engineer rather than doing it yourself as a decent engineer will check the rest of the board to make sure nothing else has blow as a knock on effect - you could end up replacing the protectiove device time and time again and every time power is put thr

The trouble with the LED stuff mainly is that its projection angle isnt as wide as ither lighting effects. At best you're only going to get 39 degrees, whicn in leymans terms means unless you are square onto the light you will not see its full brightness. The LED stuff is great if you're kitting out and bar for example and you want to colour wash a wall with different colours all night long. the LED beams are concentrated enough to do that. however some genius in a production office has decided it'l be a great idea to put LEDs in disco lights - however due to the projection angles unless

note the spec of the yamaha driver and source an eminence replacement with similar spec. Ive often used the Eminence Delta-15A (the delat15a may not be the same spec at your yamaha - so check up) whichever eminence you get, it'll be a lot cheaper than almost £250 and it'll sound just as good if not better!

their laser lighting effects are alright, and the LED stuff should at the mo be approached with caution - however, some of it can be half decent. apart from that they are what they are im afriad, budget entry level stuff. spend the extra on some decent stuff. the DJ world is flooded with s:cense:e (excuse my french) and in my experience you get what you pay for...if you think the £200 stuff isnt much cop wait untill you try the stuff that £50-150...