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what do you mean by 'set up'? With a single bin the only option really is room placement. If you need as much bass as possible then you really need to place it in a corner or at least against a wall. This gives a higher loading due to the more confined space and can give very noticeable gains in some rooms.

 

If you had 2 bins then the options become more complex but I'm not sure there's too much to get wrong with a single bass cab. Find out what it's -3or -6db point is on the low end and makes sure you use a high pass filter around this area. This way you'll get as much boom out of it for your (amplifier) buck and reduce the risk of breakages due to over excursion. You might want to play around with the crossover frequency to your mids and see what sounds nicest. some subs punch well and so like to be crossed higher (150-250hz) and some don't sound nice above 100hz. Don't go on a spec that says 40hz-400hz, this is not indicative of its intended range of use, just that it will make noise in this bandwidth.

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Is it an active or passive bass bin?

 

If active it should have in's and outs for both channels

 

If its passive, you may have to wire it up to one channel of an amp or use an amp in bridge mode depending on the wattage/ohms of it.

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Does it have a passive crossover/filter inside it? If not, you'll need an active crossover in your system.

 

If it has the option to pass through to a mid top I would advise against it with a single sub as your tops will become inbalanced power wise. Use a dedicated amp for the sub, either just using one channel, or bridged, depending on the power you want to put into it. If you're using the correct filters etc then i'd say anything between 1x and 2x the rms rating of the cab. Others will now offer their opinions on this. However, if you wish to make the most of your single sub you WILL need to drive it with more than the RMS rating (which IS safe to do if done correctly)

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You 'may' find is MUCH easier to get an active sub, crossover built in - high pass outputs too.

 

It sounds odd, but it will actually sound much better if you let the sub concentrate on the bass - and the tops not bother. People always argue its a waste of bass (Wow that rymes!) but you can sometimes be left with a messy mess of a sound if the system isn't setup properly.

 

Get a single 18" active subwoofer, fairly cheap if you look in the right places. Then feed out of that, high passed, into your tops at 120hz.

 

This should really get you the best system for the size.

 

You could really do with a new mixer too - those things are OLD, my fathers old MRT60R is still built into a console somewhere, but I can actually remember it being crap on the bass frequencies.

 

So, you could always try and new mixer. Also a new amp etc. OR! If you want a 2 box system and not bother with bass bins - flog what you have and have a listen to some 15" wooden cabs that really kick out what you want. :rolleyes: Pretty much everything that's already been said actually :wacko:

 

Ben :rolleyes:

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Using one passive bass bin does have the problem of getting bass from both channels to feed it.

 

One option is to use an amp in bridge mode but the bin must be able to handle the watts or alternatively some GEQ's have a summed sub output.

 

Going active is the easiest way.

 

Ideally the bass bin needs to be 2 to 3 times the power of the tops.

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Using one passive bass bin does have the problem of getting bass from both channels to feed it.

 

One option is to use an amp in bridge mode

 

Hi Tony

 

Can you explain if you mean that an amp in bridge mode is a solution to getting a summed signal into it, or were you referring to simply powering the cab in bridge?

 

With every amp I've ever come across, when you put them into bridge mode, only one of the inputs works. Sometimes the other one becomes an output that can be controlled via the ch2 gain knob but I've not seen one that sums the 2 to the single channel. The significant thing about bridge mode is that it is a mono output so will require a summed signal to be generated at some point before the amps input, e.g. at the mixer or active crossover.

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Hi Tony

 

Can you explain if you mean that an amp in bridge mode is a solution to getting a summed signal into it, or were you referring to simply powering the cab in bridge?

 

With every amp I've ever come across, when you put them into bridge mode, only one of the inputs works. Sometimes the other one becomes an output that can be controlled via the ch2 gain knob but I've not seen one that sums the 2 to the single channel. The significant thing about bridge mode is that it is a mono output so will require a summed signal to be generated at some point before the amps input, e.g. at the mixer or active crossover.

 

Hmmm, interesting. The Numark amp I have got sums both inputs. I have also used a Crown amp in bridged but with the inputs set to Y to sum both channels. Haven't tried the t-amp but doing a bit of Google research, it does appear that some amps will only work with one channel input.

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Hi Tony

 

Is that the Dimension series of amps? If so, they also only use Ch1 input and controls when in bridge mode.

 

Which Crown amp has the Y input as that sounds like it may have a sum option?

 

Edit:

 

Actually the text is quite confusing in the manual as it says to connect input signals but then goes on the say you only use the Ch1 controls. I wonder if the 's' on signals is a typo or whether it does some sort of re-routing internally? Easy way to test would be to plug in Ch2 onluy and see if there's any output, or unplug one whilst in operation and see if the level drops.

 

Stereo/Bridge Mode Switch- Bridged mono operation is easily achieved and gives you the output power of both

channels with just one mono output. For successful bridge operation, follow these instructions:

• Set the Mode Selector to Bridge while amplifier is off.

• Connect input signals.

• Use only the middle terminal post outputs for speaker wiring, or middle speakon output. Connect the speaker

load to the red terminals of each channel. Please confirm the (+) terminal of speaker to Channel A and the (-)

terminal of speaker to Channel B. Do not use the black terminals of each channel.

• The minimum load impedance in bridge mode is 4 Ohm.

• To adjust level, use Channel A control and leave Channel B level at zero.

• To use a subwoofer, make all setting adjustments on Channel A.

Edited by norty303

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Hi Tony

 

Is that the Dimension series of amps? If so, they also only use Ch1 input and controls when in bridge mode.

 

Which Crown amp has the Y input as that sounds like it may have a sum option?

 

Edit:

 

Actually the text is quite confusing in the manual as it says to connect input signals but then goes on the say you only use the Ch1 controls. I wonder if the 's' on signals is a typo or whether it does some sort of re-routing internally? Easy way to test would be to plug in Ch2 onluy and see if there's any output, or unplug one whilst in operation and see if the level drops.

i have a c-marks amp i use in bridge, basically i connect 1 signal (xlr ) to the left side only , and connect 1 speaker to the speaker out put that says bridged and flick a switch at the back to bridged mode, the left vol control controls the vol , have to be be aware that it only does 8 ohm in that mode so 1x 8 ohm sub gets connected.

Edited by danger mouse
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi,only just picked this up but can't quite grasp what the problem is.

As the saying goes you can't fit a quart into a pint pot!!

Put two bins one either side under your 12" cabs,preferably with the 12's up on poles.Use 15" or 18" bins

whichever you prefer,an active crossover -Behringer,DBX etc and another power amp to drive the bins.

This will make your system sound ten times better as you will be putting the correct frequencies through the correct sized drivers.

 

Job Done!!!

 

Hope this helps. smile icon

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