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bass bins and speakers or full range speakers

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hi fellow djs

as the title suggests what would be a better buy


kam z15 bass bins 350 watt rms and kam z1504 speakers = 390.00 or


idex 300 watt full range speakers 324.00


either speakers would be run through a numark dimension 4 amp


appreciate any replies




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Hi - I have a Dimension 4 and began using Alesis ProVenue 1501

speakers (300W, around £300 a pair, polycarb casing, 15") - very,

very highly recommended.


One thing to watch is that the Dimension 4 will produce 400W+ at

8 Ohms so if you push the power much beyond 75% on the 300W

speakers then the amp protection will cut in. The amp is pretty

forgiving but it will reduce the output on one or both of the channels

if you push it - may also damage amp/speakers.


Hope this helps,


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whats it going to be used for ?????


If you just want a small setup for ding the local pub then full range speakers on some stand would do the trick...


if you like playing your 70's disco funk reggea and modern dance music to a crowd of 100 people then tops and subs are the way to go....


also is that amp man enough to run such a system ???


tops and sub would offer better sound quality but your the man who has to carry it all about and wire it all up every time and you may find the public dont even notice.....




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I have 8 speakers in total, 6 full range and 2 bass.


I have only used the bass speakers about 8 times in the last three years... And I am normally out about 2-3 times a month at least...


Two of my residencies have problems with noise and I am not allowed to use bass bins and really, I find it is only other DJs that can really notice the sound difference.


Full range are the ones I use and have never had a complaint yet...

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I have taken the plunge and added a pair of 15" bas bins to sit under 2x2way 15" full range cabs.


Now each side is 4 ohm, instead of 8 ohm.


Bass is significantly improved, but the main reason is in certain venues I'm not happy using stands. By having a big heavy bass bin at the bottom, the speakers are far more stable.


But you have more gear to take.........



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thanks for the advice fellas

seems im going with the bass bins and full range speaker set now

but with a different set up coz someones just offered me a complete setup

which includes bass bins(350 watt rms) and 500 watt tops

also the two amps that come with the setup are 500 watt rms and 1500 watt rms

and the bloke says that he uses the small amp for the tops and the larger amp for the bass bins and he gets a real nice sound out of them so my minds been made up for me

space aint a problem though got a van.

1050 pounds for complete setup inc lights goalpost stand flightcase with duel cd player and mixer ,cds the lot hes emergrating.


thanks a lot

sinbad http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html/emoticons/cool.gif

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I'm a cheater. I only take my peavey pro-15 tops out most of the time and put them straight on the floor. Havent got stands for them. I only take the bass bins out when I feel I really have to.


Email :: info@nrgize-disco.co.uk

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It's interesting to see how you guys configure your sound systems and where you have the power bias. When all my kit goes out its around 7k (4 way system) with roughly 1Kw mids/tops(down to 180hz), 3Kw low mid/bass (180hz down to 80hz) and 2.5Kw subs (everything below 80hz) Admittedly that is primarily heavy dance music but even doing other music DJ's and live bands it sounds very balanced and 'hifi'. Its amazing how the extra energy from a sub or 2 in any setup really can make the music come alive and you really don't have to push the tops half as hard then.


Make sure you've got the crossover setup right for the speakers (the manufacturer should give a recommended upper range for the bass bin) and that you're not overlapping frequencies between the speakers as this will cause the sound to muddy. Also don't try and use a splitter in place of an active crossover as bass bins just sound terrible trying to play a full range signal.


Also, if your crossover has the option use a hi-pass filter on the bass to stop those VERY low frequencies getting to it, it'll sound better/tighter and the driver will have an easier time of it. Most bass bins won't really play efficiently under 50hz anyway.

DIY plans and pro audio related technical discussions


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Having just bought a active sub-LEM SPX series perhaps someone can give me the benefit of their experience.

What are the best settings -for the x-over,between 80/320 Hz.

I run it just under flat out.

A lot of dj's on the forum dont take their subs out every time but I would if I could;it makes such a difference to the sound quality.But maybe thats because I am running Quasar tops and I dont think they are the best;perhaps its time to invest in those LEM/ALTO? full range tops!!

This is not a rehearsal

This is it - grab it while you can.

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I have my X over set at about 150hz for normal work. anything below this is for the subs to deal with and I also have a 25hz cut off so that nothing lower gets to the amps.


when not runing the subs i just dial the x over back so that the x over point is 25hz so the tops get full range signal..... my top cabs are on the large side so cope very well with the full range signal....


best way to work all this out is to get a look at the graphs that the speaker people make of the signal responce and the output levels at diferent frequencys....


they show where the speakers perform the best... and from this you can work out where to set the x over points....


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To be honest a hipass of 25hz is a little low. Most 15" full range cabs will struggle to reproduce any noticeable signal below 50hz and many don't get close to that. Even good quality double 18" bass bins will struggle to reproduce below 35-40hz with any level that you'd notice. Spec sheets will often quote either a -3db, -6db or -10db frequency point which is basically where the natural roll-off of the cabinet is. This is usually tied to the port tuning frequency in bass reflex cabs. Putting any large level through at frequencies below this runs the risk of damaging the driver as the cone is 'unloaded' i.e. the excursion of the driver is not damped by the air volume in the box. A lot of manufacturers of cheaper gear quote the -10db point to make it seem as if their kit performs better than it does but fail to state that they're quoting the -10db point.


To produce 25hz is a very specialist area and involves some extremely elaborate designs, lots of expense and often multiple boxes in order to gain from the 'coupling' effect.

DIY plans and pro audio related technical discussions


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