McCardle

Depends on your budget and exactly what you are looking for really. I use a NEC P401W projector, which i'd describe as a lower-midrange projector, its not budget and its a long way from being the most expensive, but for £1k it more than does the Job and its been very reliable. Its only good for Short - Medium throw though, if you are looking for a long throw then you are going to have to venture into the £2k+ price bracket to do it properly. I use mine largely for media - Video and Image projection for Weddings and Birthdays, you can connect it to a laptop, or even run from a USB stick, wh

The fuse in the plug should be less or equal to the maximum current carrying capacity of either the cable, or the connector (whichever is lower). So for example if you are using a 10A cable with a 10A single IEC connector, then the plug fuse protecting it, should be rated at 10A or lower. However, If you had a 13A cable feeding a connector with a maximum rating of 6A then the plug fuse should then be 5A irrespective of the current capacity of the cable, you would take the lowest rated figure in the equation and fuse accordingly. In other words, the plug fuse should be equal to or below the

Hi, Welcome to the forum. Its quiet here these days but i'm sure that you will find plenty of helpful tips and advice already here on the existing threads.

As a rule of thumb (and in the absence of a true RMS rating being shown), I would always use the lowest figure given as a continuous rating, in other words, the amount of wattage which the speaker will happily run at continuously for hours on end with no damage occuring, that is what we are interested in. Maximum and Peak ratings, in my personal opinion are meaningless and have no place in professional applications, like ours which use a wide range of music signals and frequencies. After all, how long were those Max and Peak ratings applied for?, hours, minutes or even a few seconds!, we h

Hi Nick, Thanks for the reply, don't worry about the late reply, we all just pop in and out of the forum as time allows!. I'm not a parent (or caregiver) to somebody with Autism, nor do I work with them directly so my experience is somewhat lacking, however like a lot of DJ's I have attended a lot of events at both Mainstream and special Schools and Centres for Children and Young Adults at all levels of the Spectrum. I also have a Godson who has Aspergers, which although not Autism per se' does share some of the same challenges and characteristics, especially in relation to communicati

Hi Nick & Welcome to the forum . Sorry for the delay but this forum is very quiet and largely abandoned these days, so please don't think that the lack of replies means that we are ignoring your question or don't want to help, it just takes some time to gather ideas. I think it may be difficult to get all of your requirements from one lighting unit, and so your project may have to incorporate two or more different ideas if all of the boxes are to be ticked. But this can be a good thing in some respects, so if Jack gets bored of one effect, you can then switch on the next The first

The problem with these types of parts is that its difficult to know whether the manufacturer has used a commercially available off the shelf part, or whether they have had the part manufacturered for them from their own drawing. The latter being the problem as it essentially makes it a custom part, which won't be available from anywhere but the manufacturer. Can you upload a picture of the broken part in situ inside the effect?, it may shine some light (pun intended) on whether it can be obtained elsewhere. This Dealer seems to carry a lot of Acme based spares, so it may be worth shoot

Are you just here selling your own commercial interests or are you going to take part in the advice giving?

Personally i'm not a big fan of mixing conventional halogen and LED lighting effects on the same rig. Yes, LED technology has come a long way since i've been around this forum, but unless you buy some of the more expensive LED lights with 10w + 'branded' modules inside, I still think that there is a noticable difference in brightness between LED based effects and high wattage Halogen lamps when used side by side, no matter how the manufacturers smooth over the fact. If in any doubt a quick check with a lumen meter, speaks volumes and yes I have been there and done that :hide: LED's based eff

Sound (pardon the pun) advice, but the OP has originally advised on another thread that they are working to a £700 budget, so sadly these may be a bit out of their price range, unless they are lucky enough to find them second hand.

Personally I prefer the Alto TS115A speakers, i've had these now for over two years and they work flawlessly and have never let me down at a variety of functions from Weddings to School Discos. The problem is, just that like discussing tastes in cars or food, sound is also a personal preference and each DJ will put forward their own personal suggestions, to the point where you'll probably have several choices, each different to the last. There is no such thing as "The best speaker" (or we would all be using it and nothing else would sell) just the one which does what you need and sounds go

Do a forum search for "Wedding Playlist", you will find loads of them, posted over the years. Some of them may be a few years out of date but the older 60's - 00's stuff never fades away or goes out of fashion, just add a few popular hits from the last few years and of course a sprinking of the latest chart stuff to get you right up to date, and you won't go far wrong. Don't forget to ask the Bride and Groom for their request list, and of course the important first dance and any second or final track that they also want playing. Often you'll get back a nice long list of 30 or 40 tracks fro

Never used or heard them so i'm unable to comment. However there are some reviews here:- http://www.amazon.com/Electro-Voice-ZXA1-Sub-12-Powered-Subwoofer/product-reviews/B00JZTS78Y/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1 http://www.discjockeynews.com/electro-voice-zxa1-sub-test-drive-by-brian-s-redd-electro_voice/ http://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=128884.0

Never heard of them, as I suspect neither have you otherwise you wouldn't be asking the question here. Which then begs the question, if DJ's have never heard of them, then have any brides? and so where is the traffic going to be coming from which is going to be generating enquiries for your business?. This is always the first question I ask any cold caller selling advertising, then I go and check out their claims before committing to an advert. I would suspect that if the website was a honey pot of traffic with hundreds of brides sending enquiries to DJ's, then they wouldn't need to pay pe

Direct drive turntables start up faster than belt drive and generally have a more positive 'feel' which scratching etc, they are generally also better built. I'm not a big fan of Kam equipment for professional use, as it tends to be considered top end budget equipment, personally i'd buy a pair of second hand looked after Technics 1200 / 1210's which used to be industry standard, and even second hand are generally better made than budget DJ equipment. Also consider the Stanton ST150 / STR8.150 or Audio Technica ATLP-120 Sorry, I can't answer your timecode question, but you could tr

Obvious question, but if there are DMX assignment DIP switches on the rear panel, are they all switching correctly, and non of the individual switches 'stuck' between on and off or damaged in any way?. I had this on a Datamoon once, where the DIP switch was damaged internally preventing stand alone operation to be selected and so the effect did nothing as it was waiting for a DMX signal before the relay would switch on the lamp. A damaged or loose DIP switch or a bad joint on the PCB, could also probably explain why the problem was intermittant before. If there is an LED illuminated on

Unlikely to be both Transformers failed, unless its taken a jolt from a lightning surge or something major. How are the primary windings (mains side) of the transformers wired?. Do they go through any voltage selector switch?. On the mains input socket, does the socket have a built in fuse carrier?, these can get damaged or the contacts work loose sometimes, so it may be worth metering the back of the mains input socket to see whether you are getting mains voltages out. Are there any LED's lit at all on any control PCB's?

Hello and Welcome, Its difficult to figure out exactly what you are asking us here, i'm guessing its in respect to which modern medium is the best for playing out music?, and the answer to that would be whatever suits you personally, as there are so many to choose from, and they all basically do the same thing, but in different ways. Just like everything else, its largely down to personal choice and which medium a DJ feels the most comfortable with. I'm not being nosey but what do you mean by being offered a chance to play at a higher level?, are you talking about club work or some

Just one last thing. This is the type of lead which you need to connect the mixer output to the K12's. You will need two, one for each speaker (A third one is handy as a spare in case one lead fails at a gig) http://www.ipswichpa.co.uk/professional-tour-grade-van-damme--neutrik-trs-balanced-jack-to-xlr-male-plug-lead-1163-p.asp There are various lead lengths for sale, just choose the one which is best for covering the distance between the mixer and the speakers. The jack plug end plugs into one of the Mixer "Master A" jack sockets, and the round XLR end at the other end of the

Yes, you can your mixer exactly the same as you did before. The only difference being that you are plugging the audio from the master output of the mixer into your new active speakers, and effectively ignoring the built in power amplifier of the mixer. You can plug in a pair of active speakers using the mixers' master line outputs (Obviously don't use the speaker outputs at the back of the mixer!). You should connect the powered speakers to the "Master A" jack socket outputs on the top of the front panel. I would recommend buying some good quality balanced cables for running between the mi

Thats not an easy task!. "Compact" and "Large Venue Sound System" don't really go hand in hand with each other :fright: . However, there are some compact high power speakers around, at the top end of the market which may just squeeze into your budget QSC K12 - These are cabs which only have 12" drivers in them, meaning that they aren't much bigger than regular speakers. They are active, which means the amplifier is built into them, so it cuts down on equipment and set up time as you don't need to carry an amplifier, or spend time wiring them all up. It also means that you don't have th

I would be extremely cautious about any claims that this system can cope with venues holding 300+ people in our type of application without physically proving it for yourself. You will find several discussions around the forum in relation to the Bose L1 system, which generally discussed the lack of bass that the L1 system had when covering large venues with large audience capacities, many of those DJ's using the L1 had to invest in additional bass speakers or additional L1 systems in order to deal with the issues. Bear in mind that the L1 was a similar Vertical array system design to this

In all honesty I still stick by my first post, advising that 1500w to 2000w with a little more bass reinforcement would probably be a more comfortable figure and system to aim for, if the 350 capacity is going to be a regular thing. The higher power amplifier suggestion with the two pairs of EON's is going to be the cheapest and simplest option, and this will potentially give you a maximum of 1200w (2x 600w) from the EON's assuming you chose one of the 600w x 2 amplifier options, so its close to my original recommendation of 1500w and certainly one big step in the right direction compared

It doesn't matter how high the speakers are rated in Watts, you are always limited by the maximum rated output produced by the Amplifier. So whether you plug in a speaker which is rated at 400w or one which is rated at 1200w into the Amplifier, the power output supplied to them by the amplifier will still be only 300w. It will work, but the output will still be very very low. This amplifier will produce 225w RMS per channel using four speakers (2 speakers plugged into each channel), or 150 watts per channel with two speakers (one speaker per channel). So in other words, the back

Yes, your Amplifier is capable of driving down to a 4 ohm load per channel. This means that you are able to connect upto 2x 8 ohm speakers to each output channel of your amplifier. Since the Eon's are 8 ohms impedance per cabinet, you can comfortably connect 2 Eon's to each individual channel of your amplifier. However, and perhaps more importantly, the amplifier in the MP7, is only capable of giving 300w per channel, even with the additional pair of speakers connected, and its very unlikely that 600W RMS will be enough to cope with a venue with over 300 people and in all honesty I don