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Dj's United


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Everything posted by norty303

  1. But a compressor/limiter never actually ducks a signal unless you buy a proper unit designed to reduce level once once a threshold is reached (Behringer Ultradrive has a dynamic EQ function that does this). It simply stops any higher levels getting through by squashing the wave (making it more square). The bass will continue to seem louder as a result of the compression (much the same way as producers use compressors on tracks to bring out basslines and kick drums). The function of a compressor limiting a high bass signal shouldn't effect the mid/hi at all unless that was also above the
  2. A friend had the Warrior XS2500 which he used for over a year on a free party sound system which got worked hard outdoors and in, and he liked it a lot. For that sort of money you can't really complain as there's very little you'll pick up instead
  3. Then it's not your cables if they're balanced. Have you tried with a different mixer to eliminate that element of your signal chain? Is that the correct manual for your speakers? Does it explain which knob is which? That would seem to be why you need to have both knobs turned up. You need to try turning up your mixer so it's giving just under 0db, then turn up the line input level until it clips the light on the speaker, then back it off a bit. Then turn up the speaker output level until you're comfortable with the volume. This will give you the highest signal to noise ratio and
  4. If you're looking for a good solid amp to run those speakers then go for a Behringer EP2500 2 x 450w @ 8ohms / 2 x 750w @ 4ohms. They go for about £200 and i'd say they're one of the best budget amps of that size out there. Not as heavy as the Audiohead/C-Mark/T.amp equivalents either.
  5. Are you running long cables to the speakers? Are they on TRS jacks or XLR? Are the lines balanced? If not it could be noise from the cables. Do you have balanced outs on your mixer? If not a stereo active DI box might help by running short outputs from your mixer into that and then your normal (balanced) runs to the speakers. If it's the GX series then have a look here http://www.geminidj.com/product_manuals/gx_man.pdf The input level knob controls both the input and the output level of the line. The knob to the right of the line out ports is actually the speaker level (amp gain
  6. QUOTE I got the 4 channel version to sit between a crossover and the amplifiers. The crossover/limiter should be the first thing in your signal chain after the mixer. That way it'll catch any hi signals first and stop the input on the crossover being overloaded. It's all about gain structure. Go to the ProSoundWeb forum and search for gain structure, it'll tell you everything and more that you wanted to know and probably a whole lot you didn't too!! http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/html//emoticons/smile.gif
  7. The catch is that you generally get what you pay for. Asking for the cheapest amp and speaker setup will normally answer a few other questions too regarding sound quality, spl level, robustness, etc. Whilst buying kit now is getting cheaper and cheaper by the day, investing some time and effort in researching what is available and what others think of things is time well spent. Spending alittle more at the start can mean you're not wanting to upgrade quite so quickly. For cheap, reliable amps the Behringer EP series are very good and decidedly lighter than their T.amp/Audiohead/C-Mar
  8. I'm really liking Constella too. I bought direct from them for silly (cheap) money and had a couple of problems. The best bit is being able to ring them up and talk to guys who actually build the things and discuss ways to resolve them. They had no problem with me opening them up to do a fix myself rather than go through the ordeal of sending them back. Whilst some may say that they shouldn't have gone wrong in the first place, i like to think that in 3 or 4 years time the benefits of having someone on the end of a phone to talk me through stuff is going to be very useful. Carlsbro were
  9. I've been waiting for some Intimidators to come into stock with my dealer for a while so i know what the supply situation can be like but the lights are flippin' superb for the money. £145 doesn't buy you much nowadays but you get a whole load of light with the insignia and intimidator. I just wish that the pan/rotate reversed under DMX as well as standalone so you don't require a desk with channel reversal to mirror the fx
  10. @ ADS Ent - good spot, there's some wicked 1U power amps coming out now, giving massive power to weight ratio (e.g. 2k+ a side @ 4R with less than 10kg weight) but you really pay through the nose for them. With more manufacturers getting onto the technology it's driving the price of switch mode amps right down which can only be good for the consumer. Lot's of old school PA suppliers are moaning about the lack of support, etc but in a buyers market the consumer reigns supreme. I don't think i'd consider buying an amp less than 2 x 750w @ 4R now as they're really just not useable. You can
  11. I think i'd start with 4 Loony Bins @ £675 each = £2700 (but i can get them built to same spec with same drivers for £500 each) = £2000 and a Void Infinite 8 (2 x 2400w @ 4R) to drive them. £1100 Mmmmh... £3100 gone already. Have to think on the tops and processing. I shall return......
  12. Can we just go with amps and speakers and processing or do we have to do cables and everything for that money? *itching at keyboard*
  13. Snap them amps up people! I've got the t.amp branded version and they're £200+ normally. Been superb for the money on my monitors
  14. I think it's hard to beat Neutrik connectors on Van Damme cable. Check out Canford Audio's specials and end of reel offers. They're doing 4x2.5mm cable for 75p/m at the moment and 4x4mm for just over a quid/metre. For most applications you should be using 2.5mm minimum and if you're running big subs (1000w or more) then 4mm should be better.
  15. What did you get for £80 though? I've just got a very good deal from Van Damme on some speaker lead components, panel mounts and XLR bits and pieces
  16. Read the reviews though, in a lot of tests, people say they don't sound so good, with even the Behringer coming out better in blind tests.
  17. Or try Canford Audio http://www.canford.co.uk/ for cable and separate connectors. The new neutrik screwless XLR connectors are superb. You can fit one in under 2 mins without tools. Buy direct from Van Damme too for good prices http://www.vdctrading.com/
  18. Best thing i ever did was make all of my leads xlr-xlr. I now have adaptors and botch leads to terminate in any funny combinations. This way i only need to make up leads of the required lengths and i can terminate how i want. It also means i'm never without that rare combination that you may only have a need for once a year (and i can make it 30m long if i need to)
  19. 400w how? 2 x 400w @ 4R? 2 x 200w @ 4R? Silly cheap Behringer EP1500 £167 http://www.netzmarkt.de/thomann/gruppe-PAA...P-0.html?iwid=2 In fact you've just missed this deal.. http://www.bluearan.co.uk/sales/behringer/...r_Amplifier.htm Or, try here... http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pro-Sound-and-Lig...1QQftidZ2QQtZkm They build them in UK for export as other brands. Speak to Simon he knows his stuff. I've got one of the 3000w versions and it's very nice for the money.
  20. I think i'd probably do it using mixer sub-groups off of a desk. Either plug directly into the desk with your sources (downsides are 2 channels per source required and use of pre-amps for turntables) or go via 3 sub-mixers (lots of space required). You can then route your music to whichever group you want. If you don't have enough sub-groups then you could use the aux's (providing you've got 3 on your desk) but you'll need to compensate for the pre/post fade ones (as most smaller desks will normally have 1 pre, 1 post and 1 switchable) If you don't mind running mono (and stereo isn't rea
  21. If you've only got a mic in on your mixer then get an active DI box. This means you can run their signal balanced into your mixer meaning you'll get away with a longer signal run before noise becomes a problem. If you've got phantom 48v power then you can use a cheaper passive DI. The Behringers seem to work ok for the money. I specifically didn't buy a Behringer desk because of the lack of mic inputs on them, which seems to be a problem with a lot of 14/16 channel desks. In the end i got a Spirit FX16 with 16 mic/line channels on ebay. the A&H Mixwiz desks are good too and comei
  22. All XP versions are essentially the same on the disk, it's just a coded reference on the CD which determines whether it is read as XP home, pro or corporate. using an editor you can copy the cd, modify the code and burn it back as another version. So I've heard.....
  23. Yeah, noticed that Thomann had their own branded equivalent of the Chauvet DMX50 cotroller for around £65 too - most places here are around £150 for the Soundlab/Skytec/Chauvet branded version. They do specials every now and then too - got a QSC RMX2450 for £399
  24. hadn't realised that we could post that info now... http://www.netzmarkt.de/thomann/iw_smb_suc...T_WAGR_STR=SPXO Thomann are in Germany but do quote prices in GB£ and postage is very reasonable. Check out all their kit, the T.amps are good and very cheap (same as Audiohead amps, just rebranded) same with T.bone mics. Their 'The Box' range of powered speakers are good value too and said to sound as good as (in some opinions better) than the EV SX300 In the uk... http://www.boomerangsounds.co.uk/product.php?xProd=427
  25. How about the Behringer Ultradrive? It's a digital crossover, with parametric EQ, limiters, expander/compressor and delays on each of its 6 outputs (and some of above on inputs too) Its 1U high and can be had for £165 at the moment. PM me if you'd like to know where from. Might be able to replace a few other bits of kit in your rack along the way too. I've got one (and i paid £275 for mine) and i say its the best bit of kit i own.
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