norty303

The quality of a speaker is dependant on the driver being matched to the correct enclosure. you could take a driver from a great sounding cabinet and make it sound very bad very quickly in a different enclosure. Remember too that drivers are made for different applications, be it bass reflex, bandpass or horns, each requiring very different characteristics. If you were to take one of the best drivers for horn loading in the world and put it in a reflex box you'd get less than satisfactory results

Maybe a couple of Void V-1000 18" bass drivers and some sheets of ply for some new subs. Some P-audio SN-12mb for some new narrow dispersion mid/top cabs to replace the 15's i've got currently. A dbx DR260 driverack. Some spares to finally arrive from SEME Maybe a bigger front room to keep it all in.

I recently bought a load of QSC amps from the states and saved a fortune. You can find out what you're likely to get hit for on the import duty by checking the TARIC database. Every item will fit into a category and then will have an associated duty rate attached to it depending on where in the world your buying from. http://europa.eu.int/comm/taxation_customs...tarchap?Lang=EN All taxes are applied after the shipping charges have been added. I used DHL as they pay any taxes up front and bill you for it afterwards meaning you get your goods quicker. I also used their up to 30kg serv

We're going to go through this whole thing again i can see but i'll also chime in and say you should be looking at an amp that can supply 1.5 to 2 times the rms rating of the speaker at the stated impedance

QUOTE Simply because a 12" or 10" moves faster than a 15" so they are better at reproducing the mid/top frequencies That myth has come about as a result of big 18" and 21" drivers in big ported boxes sounding 'mushy' and 'slow'. Usually a bigger diameter driver has a larger excursion and so at at any given frequency will have to move faster in order to move from out point to in point within the same time frame. Thats why a large motor on a lightweight cone structure is far more critical in larger drivers than smaller ones. Manufacturers often have to use a compromise driver in a 15" + H

QUOTE Not a U-turn, as I've used the "Driving a car at 90mph when it can only do 90mph" analogy in previous threads, but I would add my usual comments that a compressor/limiter would be a worthwhile safety device, and that the amps should have their attentuation (volume as some my call em) controls turned down. LOL Didn't think you had! But if you re-read back what you wrote, you clearly stated that they wanted an amp capable of giving 1000 - 1200w/ch @ 4ohms to run their 600wrms 4ohm speakers.

QUOTE I'd go for the 15s or smaller.... 18s always seem to sound "flappy" You've clearly never heard a well designed and manufactured 18 then. The type of cab can make a large difference too. 18" horns can be very 'tight' indeed with a far higher quality and output than a replex or bandpass box. It breaks my heart to hear people say that 18's are flappy when the only reference is a Kam or Gemini cab. With reference to weight, there are many driver manufacturers now using neodymium magnets which in somecases can halve the weight of the driver. Not inconsiderable saving when some dri

QUOTE Amp'ing the above...IF you want to get 600watts at 4 ohms out of your 600watt speakers (at 4 ohms per side) you should look at amps capable of delivering about 1000 to 1200+ watts at 4 ohms per side. Just checking this Gary - is this a U-turn by you on your opinion of NOT running amps of 2 x the rms rating of the speaker or is it a mis-type and it should have read '600watt speakers (at 8 ohms per side)' or where you still meaning there'd be 2 of these 600 watt 8ohm speakers in parallel per side?

Based on cone area the 2 15's will move around 1/3 more air than the single 18 but you need to take into account the Vd (displacement Volume) value of the driver which is the surface area multiplied by the xmax (maximum excursion) value. All these should be available from the manufacturers website under the T/S (Thiele/Small) parameters. Some 18's will move more air than a pair of 15's and this is one of the major things to consider in a bass bin, moving LOTS of air. Other factors such as the strength of the motor will dictate the sound quality by having worse or better control of the con

Yeah but i don't want to connect a laptop coz they're chunky and bulky, i want to connect a little external drive using standard parent/child folder structure and be able to navigate using a touch screen. Actually i don't want any of that but i can see a market for it

When is someone going to do a CD player with USB2 for an external HD with an easy to use touch screen interface for MP3 browsing? Its not a hard concept, almost like a hardware interface for the PC but without the PC. *cue someone posting a link to one thats been out for ages*

Your Warrior amp is probably 2 x 500w @ 4ohms too which means its realistically only giving 300w @ 8ohms maximum. You may not be getting everything that you can out of a 300w-400w speaker and if you try to go louder you may well end up clipping your amp causing driver failure where a 500w amp was safely within limits. It doesn't matter which order you connect the speakers if you're paralleling them, the amp will just see a single load of the combined impedance of the 2 boxes. e.g. 2 8ohm cabs will be a 4ohm load. The power it puts out will hit each cab evenly.

QUOTE Its worthwhile experimenting briefly with the REC OUT sockets. Whilst the Master Output on you mixer may, or may not affect the levels passing through the Rec Out Sockets, most mixers which I've tried, usually do. I'd definately experiment, my experience has been that they do not. The channel gains, eq and fader do change the level. Everything post fader doesn't.

Check on the Chauvet website and look for the one that looks the same. Download the manual.

I've got a pair of the K112 moulded cabs which i use as monitors. They're a bit fizzy in the tops but you can calm them with EQ. Need a bit of boost in the bottom to make the bass come out but don't try to play them too low with too much power or you'll blow them. I hi-pass mine at around 60hz.

I've used a brand new one and thought that the master ramps up really severely at the top of the travel so not something i'd like to have attached to my system with other DJ's using it (my work is PA supply) Spoke to the house sound guy at the venue where i used it and he said they have no longevity in a club environment but as they get stolen so frequently (big East London venue) they go missing before they break (usually)!!

No, distortion just 'sounds' bad. Your amp can't tell the difference between a distorted signal at -3db and a clean signal at -3db apart from the distorted signal might have a higher average value. Its more likely to be a sawtooth type wave rather than sine but its still just a wave at the level its being played. Take those big grindy guitar solo's or distrted 303 sounds in dance music. They're heavy on the distortion, many created using desk distortion in the first place (overdrive the channel gain but reduce the fader to ensure it's still under 0db at the master or group output). Once

QUOTE Note that even if the master volume is not in the 'red' but the channel level is - damage can still be done. I'm unsure by your statement here. Reds on amps is a 'bad thing' however reds on pieces of kit like mixers and outboard is usually only bad from a sound quality point of view. Overdriving a channel will introduce distortion on that channel strips input stage and different desks/mixers behave differently. The master ouptut is (depending on accuracy) telling you the total output coming from the mixer, so even if the channel is massively overdriven, if the master is still show

Actually, I own a Red Sounds Cycloops (for sale actually if anyones interested) and the BPM detection engine on it is very accurate and not easily confused. Strange chillout beats, DrumnBass, etc don't give it too much trouble and it has to be accurate as it drives the sample tempo. I've been able to have the sampler looping for ages with no slippage of sync.

Couldn't agree more with ADS. Adding extra bits and pieces inevitably leads to failures of interconnects and other odds and sods. Additional power supplies, etc make life more complicated in the long run. With DJ gear so cheap now i'd be looking for a single unit that can do the job right, perhaps with a little room for expansion in the future. He's not suggesting chucking everything out, just investing the money you might spend on a 'fix it' unit on a single unit for all your needs. Might find it's not a lot more expensive anyway.

Interestingly, of all of the EV SX and S series i've heard, the passives have blown the actives out of the water as far as sound quality is concerned. The actives just tend to mush and fart at higher SPL's whilst the passives stay nice and taught much louder. The old S-200's are incredible sounding speakers.

Most cheaper DJ products originate from china nowadays. The reason why they're that cheap on ebay is because whoever is selling them isn't even handling the goods - they're just shipped direct to you.

You can get cheaper flightcases that are not 'Touring' grade for applications where they're not going to get used 7 days a week in a demanding environment. Have a look on the Terralec website (now re-done and much nicer to use actually) for some better deals. I've found that flight cases are one of those items that tend to retain a good amount of resale value - probably more than the kit inside them so look upon it as a good investment. Look on ebay too, they have a whole section for them and once they hit 2nd hand value they tend to stay at that price

QUOTE Wouldnt change my Pioneer mixer for anything. And Ive used pretty much every mixer going including A&H. Great ergonomics on the DJM, don't know many DJ's who don't really enjoy using them, but the metering is just a joke. Why produce a mixer that doesn't actually tell you REALLY what you're outputting.....

Actually the 464 is under a grand which i think is VERY good value for money when you compare it to lesser mixers like the Pioneers (and i own a DJM600!)